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Areas in Buck's Bar Dome

Dinkum Gulley 7 / 0 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Great Flake 4 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Main Area 11 / 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 21

Description

This traditional section of Cosumnes River Gorge is a shorter version of the larger Gutenberger wall across the way. This area features cracks and face climbs from 20 - 50 feet in length that are almost all traditional routes, with some tougher top rope options available as well. Difficulty ranges from 5.1 -5.12, depending on what you're looking for. You will also find an abundance of chimneys on Bucks Bar Dome, which are all quite fun.

This is a great place to be in a hot afternoon when the areas move into the shade.

All routes can be lowered off or walked off, depending on your preference.

Getting There

From the path directions for the area, this is the first rock that you come to down the path. As you head down the path you will come across the un-indentifiable top of the dome. You canwalk to the edge here where you will find top anchors and rappel, or you can walk around the far side (about 100 yards) and walk down the path. As the path heads down to the stream in a small gully, you will find the cracks of Buck's Bar Dome to your left.

40 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buck's Bar Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Pod
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Magic Beans
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unconquerable
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Piece
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Live and Learn
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Squeeze Cheeze
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chamberlin's Chimney
Trad, TR
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Drastical
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dinkum
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Roof
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mangler
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fly or Die
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Adhesion
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bat Roof Direct
TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fingerprint
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Pod Dinkum Gulley
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Magic Beans Dinkum Gulley
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Unconquerable Main Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Test Piece Main Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Live and Learn Great Flake
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Squeeze Cheeze Main Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Chamberlin's Chimney Main Area
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Drastical Dinkum Gulley
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Dinkum Dinkum Gulley
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Bat Roof Main Area
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Mangler Great Flake
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Fly or Die Main Area
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Adhesion Main Area
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Bat Roof Direct Main Area
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
Fingerprint Main Area
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR
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I was blessed to first climb here in 1978. It was a small community of climbers at that time, before indoor gyms, climbing harnesses or kernmantle ropes. Glad to see that most of the routes that had names at that time have kept them! Dinkum used to be rated a "hard 5.8." I see it's considered 5.9 now. It's a great, well protected route to practice placing protection. Sep 14, 2016
sulli
Lake Tahoe, Ca
sulli   Lake Tahoe, Ca
For anyone pondering, like I did, whether you can just throw down a pad and boulder these short lines, ... the answer is; not really. These lines, despite being short, are not boulder problems. If you climb here without a rope, these are free solos. The landings are sketchy, a ground fall here will likely result in something broken. And falling from some of the stuff further down into the canyon could result in one literally rolling into the river and being washed away.
Bring a rope and a partner :) Feb 12, 2014

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