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Areas in Buck's Bar Dome

Dinkum Gulley 8 / 0 / 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Great Flake 4 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Main Area 11 / 0 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 21
Elevation: 1,701 ft
GPS: 38.649, -120.707 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 49,504 total · 263/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on May 28, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

This traditional section of Cosumnes River Gorge is a shorter version of the larger Gutenberger wall across the way. This area features cracks and face climbs from 20 - 50 feet in length that are almost all traditional routes, with some tougher top rope options available as well. Difficulty ranges from 5.1 -5.12, depending on what you're looking for. You will also find an abundance of chimneys on Bucks Bar Dome, which are all quite fun.

This is a great place to be in a hot afternoon when the areas move into the shade.

All routes can be lowered off or walked off, depending on your preference.

Getting There

From the path directions for the area, this is the first rock that you come to down the path. As you head down the path you will come across the un-indentifiable top of the dome. You canwalk to the edge here where you will find top anchors and rappel, or you can walk around the far side (about 100 yards) and walk down the path. As the path heads down to the stream in a small gully, you will find the cracks of Buck's Bar Dome to your left.

41 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Buck's Bar Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 47
The Pod
Trad, TR
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
 24
Magic Beans
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 91
Unconquerable
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 125
Test Piece
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
Live and Learn
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 15
Squeeze Cheeze
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 117
Dinkum
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 22
Bat Roof
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Mangler
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 3
Robin's Attic
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 3
Unconquerable Tunnel Through
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Fly or Die
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 50
Adhesion
TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Bat Roof Direct
TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Fingerprint
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Pod Dinkum Gulley
 47
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Magic Beans Dinkum Gulley
 24
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Trad
Unconquerable Main Area
 91
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Test Piece Main Area
 125
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Live and Learn Great Flake
 36
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Squeeze Cheeze Main Area
 15
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Dinkum Dinkum Gulley
 117
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Bat Roof Main Area
 22
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Mangler Great Flake
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Robin's Attic Dinkum Gulley
 3
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Unconquerable Tunnel Through Main Area
 3
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Fly or Die Main Area
 18
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Adhesion Main Area
 50
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
Bat Roof Direct Main Area
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c TR
Fingerprint Main Area
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b TR
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sulli
Lake Tahoe, Ca
sulli   Lake Tahoe, Ca
For anyone pondering, like I did, whether you can just throw down a pad and boulder these short lines, ... the answer is; not really. These lines, despite being short, are not boulder problems. If you climb here without a rope, these are free solos. The landings are sketchy, a ground fall here will likely result in something broken. And falling from some of the stuff further down into the canyon could result in one literally rolling into the river and being washed away.
Bring a rope and a partner :) Feb 12, 2014
I was blessed to first climb here in 1978. It was a small community of climbers at that time, before indoor gyms, climbing harnesses or kernmantle ropes. Glad to see that most of the routes that had names at that time have kept them! Dinkum used to be rated a "hard 5.8." I see it's considered 5.9 now. It's a great, well protected route to practice placing protection. Sep 14, 2016

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