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Adhesion TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bat Crack Left T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bat Crack Right TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bat Roof T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bat Roof Direct TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beginner's Cracks T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Candy Corn Boulder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chamberlin's Chimney T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fingerprint TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fly or Die TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great Chimney TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Khazad Arete T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Popcorn T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Rotten Face TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Squeeze Cheeze TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Test Piece T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triscuit Rock TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unconquerable T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unconquerable Tunnel Through T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Whatchamadigit Crack T,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c C2
Type: Trad, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,639 total, 11/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Dec 3, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Candy Corn Boulder starts just right of Beginner's Cracks where two obvious large crack systems angle towards each other and meet about 12' up. Climb left, right, or both to get to easier ground above. I gave this a one star as if you try various starts, you get lots of practice using different crack techniques. By using just the left crack, or just the right crack, or using both cracks, all go at 5.7 or so. Jamming the right crack as a straight-in hand jam goes at 5.9. A good finish to this climb continues up on ramp/large flake above to where you can step left onto the large knob on face. Angle up and right for an easier finish (5.7) or step left further on the two large knobs and continue straight up as on the finish of Popcorn (5.10a depending on height).

Protection

Candy Corn Boulder is usually done as a toprope but the climb could be protected with medium to large pro up to the beginning of Popcorn but is probably not worth it. Leading up even the easy variation of Popcorn would be run out. Anchors on the top of Beginner's Cracks could be used for toproping this climb.

Photos

cirelachlan  
 
The candy corn start is pretty polished from chalk and use. The middle of it offers a nice concave grip on the backside. the last part is an uncomfortable width, so jam a foot in there to stand up and reach the mantle exit. The exit crack is the fun part. Perfect fingers all the way out and plenty of knobs for your feet. There is a nice finger crack under the finish that leads from beginner cracks. I like that variation because the finish feels way to short. It needs to be about 40' longer. lol Jul 26, 2014
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
A good way to do this climb is to move left about 7' after you are standing after the initial jamming cracks. Move left and finish on the right-most crack. Good gear and fun moves takes you to the top. This is one of the variations of Beginner's Crack but makes the Candy Cane Boulder into a full fun climb. Feb 6, 2011