Infinity Gauntlet

The only thing that could possibly defeat the hulk is the power of the infamous Infinity Gauntlet. 

The route: Short cruxes, some crunchy rock, some great rock, great protection and bail anywhere you want. We were pleased at how clean it was but over time it will get much better. We had one rule- don't get pulled to the right into "the folds"- a series of junky dihedrals separating this line from the Red Dihedral. 

Be exceptionally careful with ANY rockfall as the higher you get the more increased potential it can aim towards the Red Dihedral (let alone the base of the wall). Keep in mind this is a mountain, not Owens River Gorge. TREAD LIGHTLY.

P1 70m 5.7R start on a low angle, left facing 20’ wide ramp in a recess, 100’ left of the start of the red dihedral. Follow a series of low angle corners aiming up continually but not dramatically right. Avoid loose rock.

P2 35m 5.7R Continue low angle ramps up and right then a bit left towards the prominent white corner- the leftmost feature of the wall full of cracks between you and the red dihedral. Belay at a scooped ledge.

P3 32m 5.10a follow the right most blocky corner towards a wide crack in a flake. On top of a broken pillar, step left into a “dangling handcrack”. Beneath a large chockstone, step left under a bolt and reach out to a jug rail. Belay beneath the thin corner at a slim stance.

P4 20m 5.11c Head up the excellent finger crack in a left facing corner 45’ until you enter the bombay chimney and can take a no-hands breather. Swivel around and exit right through the notch out of the chimney on a fantastic jug that gives access to the upper dihedral. Small Offset/tapered nuts are very useful (some we found at the base were left fixed). Bolt at exit is to tension rope away from a mildly concerning edge. 

P5 34m 5.11d Launch up the corner with parallel finger cracks. Pull the unique crux through the roof by utilizing the left arete and a lone fingerlock for the right. Past the crux, follow enjoyable moderate ground up right on a crack system to a belay perch on your left just past a bolt.

P6 34m 5.8 Above you are 50 different cracks to choose from. Start up the groove to your left then step right to a rib that eventually trends again left (after the first of two bolts) Take this feature to a belay left under the undercling corner (left-most dihedral with bolts)

P7 35m 5.11a Beautiful. Head up a rotten groove on your right, then step left at a bolt (long draw) into the corner. Reach out into the layback on the left eventually passing a large undercling flake. When the crack tapers down at the top, step left past a bolt to the anchors. + The lower corner had bolts added as the placements were awkward and blind. 

P8 34m 5.10c This is going to clean up brilliantly. Follow the overlapping corners trending slightly right above towards a rap station beneath the blank face. Technical and diverse.

P9 35m 5.10b Step right into a corner with bolts. Follow a stair-step corner up and right towards the massive table-top rock. Instead of heading up the thin corner to it, do a 30’ rotten upward handrail traverse left to a small hand crack that leads to a large belay ledge. 

Note: Mostly unnecessary bolts on this pitch. Cracks were dirty and crunchy on the first go but cleaned up great. Would rather leave hangers than studs. 

P10 30m 5.8 Head up the chute corner on your left. After exiting, aim up and left passing fins and blocks towards the finishing tower and a perch belay above a massive detached flake.

P11 20m 5.9 A really nice pitch. Short crux off the belay past a bolt, then splitter cracks and corners straight up to the cozy belay ledge beneath the Superball tower. Note: The Red dihedrals final pitch is just to your right and can join here. 

P12 20m 5.10a Fantastic finish! Don’t skip it! From the belay, scramble right around a balanced block, then up balancing pillars to a bolt aiming towards a mini handcrack roof on the right. Be cautious with the rotten band here, then pull into the immaculate finger-to-hands flared splitter heading to the incredible summit. (Anchors below lip)

Descent: Anchored raps, none more than 35m, follow the route to the base. Rap works for Red Dihedral and Eye of the Storm as well.

100 feet left of Red Dihedral starting on a wide right leaning ramp.

Cams: doubles to .5, singles to #4, small nuts, 70m rope, 6 draws + 6 slings + helmets. Bring more if linking pitches.