Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 13 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Peter Croft, Dave Nettle, Andy Puhvel, Sept 2, 2014
Page Views: 5,284 total · 46/month
Shared By: Jeff Gicklhorn on Sep 16, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

Stellar new line established September 2014 that climbs between Positive Vibrations and Airstream. Many pitches are short to minimize rope drag. 4 stars all the way!

P1: 12a Power laybacking past 4 bolts to finger crack.  The Power Rangers start.

P2: 11c thin flared crack into a Slab traverse to the anchor - easy to link into 3 with proper extensions.

P3: 11b techy thin flakes- mostly bolts.  Ends on the big ledge next to the top of PVs pitch 2.  Best to drop in a gear belay below the start of the next pitch.

P4: 11c awesome thin hands crack on a pillar to a single bolt to reachy jug under the roof into a thin corner and then across to an awesome flake to the belay shared with PV

P5: 12a slab - bring your best slab technique for this awesome pitch that ends in "11a fingers." That finger crack felt quite hard for that grade!

P6: 11b slippery stemming to a single bolt and then easier varied climbing

P7: 12a Up a steep thin hands crack to a 2 bolt traverse on bulletproof slippery rock to a crimpy face traverse, then up a slabby arete.

P8: 12a "The Hanging Crack" - One of my favorite pitches. Awesome finger/hand crack to a roof crux with limited feet.  Cut right over to the shared belay with PV.

P9: 12b - Improbable looking traverse across slick green rock that climbs very straight forward once you initiate the moves.  Climbs the shared corner with PV until just before PV goes right under the roof, at that point commit to tiny crimps and quest across the green face out left to the arete and then up into the crack system.  Gear belay in the crack standing on the small chock stone. 0.3 thru #1s.

P10: 12a - Traverse under the roof and over to the arete on the right. Keep traverse around the arete till you hit the amazing handcrack. Climb up through the crux of Positive Vibes and belay at the shared bolts.

P11: 11c Traverse up and left to the  crack nearest the arete.  Head up the flared fingers crack till you get some jugs to the left of the crack and then mantel onto the shady corner belay ledge.

P12: 12a stemming.  Very thin off the belay, into a .4 crack in a corner the grows into a #3 at the top.  Then back to very thin Really fun stemming past 2 bolts, then remember to head right after the high third bolt and then back left. I went up and left and while do-able, you must pull moves on less than desirable rock.

P13: 11b tricky face climbing past several bolts, then right into intermittent crack systems and one more bolt, and up to a bolted belay in a cozy crows nest platform.

Or keep going right and escape into the last pitch of PV

P14: 11d bolted glory arete finish to edge of the ridgeline.

Location Suggest change

Starts on the Power Ranger start, then climbs between Positive Vibrations and Airstream, sharing several belays on both.

Protection Suggest change

As per Nettle's Topo: Tiny wires, small-med wires, 2 ea tiny cams, double cams to #2 BD, 1 #3 BD, slings.

Photos

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