Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 13 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Peter Croft, Dave Nettle, Andy Puhvel, Sept 2, 2014
Page Views: 1,971 total · 34/month
Shared By: Jeff Gicklhorn on Sep 16, 2014
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Stellar new line established September 2014 that climbs between Positive Vibrations and Airstream. Many pitches are short to minimize rope drag. 4 stars all the way!

P1: 12a Power laybacking to finger crack
P2: 11c Slab - easy to link into 3
P3: 11b tech - mostly bolts
P4: 11c awesome handcrack to reachy jug and then an awesome flake
P5: 12a slab - bring your best slab technique for this awesome pitch that ends in "11a fingers." That finger crack felt quite hard for that grade!
P6: 11b slippery stemming to easier varied climbing
P7: 12a traverse - bulletproof slippery rock to a crimpy face traverse
P8: 12a "The Hanging Crack" - One of my favorite pitches. Awesome finger/hand crack to a roof crux with limited feet.
P9: 12b - Improbable looking traverse that climbs very straight forward once you initiate the moves
P10: 12a - Traverse under the roof and over the arete. Keep traverse to you hit the amazing handcrack. Climb up through the crux of Positive Vibes and belay at bolts
P11: Traverse up and left to the other side of the arete
P12: 12a stemming. Really fun stemming. Remember to head right after the high third bolt and then back left. I went up and left and while do-able, you must pull moves on less than desirable rock.
P13: You can either head straight up the bolted 11c/11d arete or escape onto PV.
P14: If you escaped onto PV - climb the last splitter 5.8 handcrack

Location

Starts on the Power Ranger start, then climbs between Positive Vibrations and Airstream, sharing several belays on both.

Protection

As per Nettle's Topo: Tiny wires, small-med wires, 2 ea tiny cams, double cams to #2 BD, 1 #3 BD, slings.

Photos