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Eye of the Storm
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.5 from 13
votes
Routes in Incredible Hulk
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Airstream T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Astrohulk T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Beeline T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blowhard T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Choose Joy T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Escape from Poland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Eye of the Storm T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Green Thunder T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Lenticular Gyrations T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Lost in the Sun T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Nalazak T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Polish Route, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Positive Vibrations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasil") T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Solar Flare T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Sun Burn (aka Solar Burn) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sunspot Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tradewinds T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Up in Smoke T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Venturi Effect, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wind Shear T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 10 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Johnny Copp (first 4), Nils Davis and Brent Obinger |
| Page Views: | 5,457 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Piper on Jul 1, 2013 |
| Admins: | Chris Owen, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Description
A badass route put up by some badass Sierra crushers! It offers classic Hulk crack climbing, challenging face climbing, stemming and an awesome dead point move to exit the crux dihedral. We'll also mention a little "tread lightly" climbing on some hollow flakes that felt relatively safe, as it is protected by well placed bolts.
Get out and climb this route! Here's an article by Nils about the first ascent: alpinist.com/doc/web07f/new…
P1 (11a, 180’): Scramble up 3rd/4th class on left side of Venturi Effect’s P1 to big ledge or straight up to small roof w/ cool kneebar. Up the right-facing corner, clip a bolt before continuing on sometimes thin climbing. Bolted Belay.
P2 (10, 90’): Traverse right from LF corner on short slab w/ 2 bolts. Almost immediately head up a ledgy face aiming for the awesome left splitter of P3 near the arete. Gear Belay.
P3 (11d, 130’): Great jamming leads to a short cruxy corner with small gear. Bolted Belay
P4 (11b, 180’): Some finger cracks lead to stepping left on a ledgy face section & then hand crack ending on Bivy ledge. Gear Belay.
P5 (.8, 160’): Traverse right along ledge and easy ramp crossing AH/TW to a bolted anchor.
P6 (11d, 190’:) 4 bolts. Tread carefully and watch out for loose flakes and blocks. Bring some small wires and cams, which are nice to still have for the upper corner. End at 2 bolt belay.
P7 (11-, 160’): 10b face moves out right along 2 bolts to a thin 11- LF corner. Extend draws to prevent rope drag.
P8 (12b, 140’): 3 bolts. Step left to splitter. Fun hand & finger crack leads to really cool corner climbing protected by bolts. Exit right with awesome big moves on big holds as crack turns to roof. End at 2 bolt belay. A single rack from BD #.4 to #2 and 2x #.3’s should be good enough.
P9 (10a, 100’): Head briefly up a corner before reaching left to a crack on the face and generally straight up from there.
P10 (10b, 100’): Skip this cool pitch if you want to go down the Venturi raps by escaping through easy 5th class terrain.
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