Avg: 4 from 17 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m), 9 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Conrad Anker & Peter Croft 2007|
|Page Views:||17,709 total · 203/month|
|Shared By:||Luke Stefurak on Jul 22, 2013|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
P1 - 5.10c - 175 feet
Start up the crack system just to the right of the P1 corner on the Polish route. This is also the start for Airstream. Climb up forty feet and instead of going right at the bush (for Airstream, Sunspot) continue straight up passing a thin crux. Continue up double cracks until they fade out and you can make a belay at an alcove on the left. There may or may not be fixed nuts here. You can back them up with finger sized gear.
P2 - 5.10b R - 100 feet
Follow the crack system for a few moves off the belay before you must face climb up and right. Enjoy a stimulating section of unprotected 5.10- which takes you 20 feet across to an obvious slanting crack. Follow this crack as it trends back to the left. Belay at a stance about 10 feet below a single bolt. Belay takes .75" to 2.5" gear. It is possible to link this pitch with the next if you have managed your rope drag.
P3 - 5.11b - 75 feet
Climb past two fixed nuts and a tricky move to get established below the bolt. Blast up the thin layback with sufficient gear and creative balancy climbing. Eventually the crack pinches out and you need to step left out of the corner. There is an obvious rock scar on the left that provides a nice foot hold. A few thin moves lead to a belay at great stance with two bolts.
P4 - 5.11b/c - 90 feet
Face climb straight up past three bolts and a few fragile holds (5.11). The rest of the pitch takes gear as you layback up the obvious corner, 5.11-, until you can build a gear belay. This belay should be just below the bolts on the next pitch. Belay takes nuts and finger sized gear. Yet again it is possible to link this pitch with the next one, but most will want to break it up due to the cruxy nature of pitch five.
P5 - 5.12b - 60 feet
The difficulty cranks up a notch on this fully bolted pitch. Take 6 draws and a shoulder lenght sling. No other gear needed. Thin holds past the first two bolts lead to a hard balance move above the third bolt. Keep your wits about you since the climbing stays hard all the way until the belay. It is possible to sling a horn to protect the final mantel. Belay at a good stance with two bolts.
P6 - 5.10d 90 feet
Bring the full rack and switch back into trad mode. Follow discontinuous cracks on the pillar to the left of the main corner. Expect lots of thin gear and tricky climbing. You are aiming for a two bolt belay, above a flake. This anchor is not setup as a rap station, but is a nice stance.
Above this point you only need quickdraws, a couple RP's and a finger sized cam.
P7 - 5.12c 60 feet -
From the belay traverse straight right and then up with hard moves right off the bat. This is another pitch protected by entirely by bolts. Expect hard laybacking with some trickery when the holds blank out. Belay at two bolts on the arete. Take 6-7 Quickdraws. Stunning location!
P8 - 5.12d 100 feet -
Climb the beautiful arete on the left side of the Sunspot. A few bolts of very hard climbing get you established at the bottom of the Sunspot. Surmount the overhang and move left onto the arete. Work up using holds on both sides of the arete until you reach an exposed two bolt belay at the top of the Sunspot. ~13 bolts on this pitch, no gear needed.
P9 - 5.12a/b 100 feet
Face climb up past spaced bolts until you can place a finger size cam in a flake out left. Power up the overhang until you get to a good stance above a piton. It is possible to place a few RPs/Offsets between bolts above this point. Fight up the corner past a few more bolts until you reach a good ledge with a two bolt belay. ~10 bolts on this pitch + RP's and a finger sized piece.
At this point you can climb right, from the belay, to join up with Sunspot Dihedral. You can take SD to the ridge or the summit.
You can rappel from P9 with a 70m rope. Tie knots since some of the rappels are close! Not all of the anchors are used (skip P6). From the P5 anchor (on Solar Flare) you rappel to the left to the P2 anchor on Blowhard/Polish route. This rappel is 40m but you can easily downclimb the bottom 10 feet to the Blowhard anchor. Watch the ends of your rope if you have a 70m rope. It is also possible to rappel to P3 on Solar Flare and then rappel sideways and climb back up to the P2 Anchor on Blowhard.
From the P2 anchor on Blowhard/Polish route you can rappel with a 70m rope into the gully.
Rapping straight down from the bolted anchor at the end of P3 requires two ropes and is not recommended.