Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Peter Croft and Andrew Stevens July 2004
Page Views: 10,678 total · 79/month
Shared By: Neil Kauffman on Aug 29, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This thing is totally worth doing and typical of the Hulk: amazing rock, challenging climbing and pretty much one crack system the whole way.

P1: Climb the right-facing corner just left of the start of the Polish Route. Clip a bolt at the lip of the roof and climb over it on its left side (5.11) to face climbing past two more bolts. A bit of a runout on easier ground gets you up and right to two more bolts (5.12) to gain the thin crack. Climb this to a stance with one good bolt and a nut.

P2: Climb the crack system straight up and a bit left to the bolted anchor at the base of the crux pitch.(5.10)

P3: Climb the short offwidth to bolted face climbing to gain the crux splitter. Climb the splitter just left of the arete to a stance with a nice bolted anchor. (12+)

P4: Step right around the arete off the anchor and climb an awesome 5.10 splitter crack until a little after it pinches down to a finger crack.  About 10’ below what looks like a ledge use some feet on the arete to move around left.  You’ll see the anchors out left, protect high and figure out how to get to them. (11-/10a height dependent)

P5: Sport climb hard through 9 bolts and an optional .4” cam. (12+)

P6: Climb the stem corner overhead with a lot of small gear and some committing moves to a couple of bolts at the top. (5.11+)

Protection

Many small wires. All bolted anchors, setup for rappel with a 70m rope.

Photos