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Routes in Incredible Hulk

Airstream T 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Astrohulk T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Beeline T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blowhard T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Escape from Poland T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Eye of the Storm T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Lenticular Gyrations T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Lost in the Sun T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Polish Route, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Positive Vibrations T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasil") T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Burn T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Solar Flare T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Sunspot Dihedral T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tradewinds T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Venturi Effect, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wind Shear T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Peter Croft and Andrew Stevens July 2004
Page Views: 6,944 total · 69/month
Shared By: Neil Kauffman on Aug 29, 2010
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This thing is totally worth doing and typical of the Hulk: amazing rock, challenging climbing and pretty much one crack system the whole way.

P1: Climb the right-facing corner just left of the start of the Polish Route. Clip a bolt at the lip of the roof and climb over it on its left side (5.11) to face climbing past two more bolts. A bit of a runout on easier ground gets you up and right to two more bolts (5.12) to gain the thin crack. Climb this to a stance with one good bolt and a nut.
P2: Climb the crack system straight up and a bit left to the bolted anchor at the base of the crux pitch.(5.10)
P3: Climb the short offwidth to bolted face climbing to gain the crux splitter. Climb the splitter just left of the arete to a stance with a nice bolted anchor. (12+)
P4: Step right around the arete off the anchor and climb an awesome 5.10 splitter crack, stepping right into the next crack system and back left to a bolted belay.
P5: Climb up and left to a short corner with a pin and a fixed offset nut (5.10+ish). Climb straight up to a ledge and belay below a left-leaning undercling.
P6: Undercling left into the final stemming corner with bolts.(5.11+)

Protection

Many small wires. All bolted anchors, setup for rappel with a 70m rope.

Photos

Nick Stayner
Wymont Kingdom
Nick Stayner   Wymont Kingdom
Yeah Neil, did you climb this rig or what? Aug 30, 2010
SamP Piper
Truckee, CA
 
SamP Piper   Truckee, CA
 
I climbed this route with my friend Kevin on a recent trip. This thing is totally worth doing and typical of the Hulk: Amazing rock, challenging climbing and pretty much one crack system the whole way. I have a blurry topo somewhere but it will just as easy to describe:
P1: Climb the rt facing corner just left of the start of the Polish. Clip a bolt at the lip of the roof and climb over it on its left side (5.11) to face climbing past two more bolts. A bit of a runout on easier ground gets you up and right to two more bolts (5.12) to gain the thin crack. Climb this to a stance with one good bolt and a nut.
P2: Climb the crack system straight up and a bit left to the bolted anchor at the base of the crux pitch.(5.10)
P3: Climb the short offwidth to bolted face climbing to gain the crux splitter. Climb the splitter just left of the arete to a stance with a nice bolted anchor. (12+)
P4: Step right around the arete off the anchor and climb an awesome 5.10 splitter crack, stepping right into the next crack system and back left to a bolted belay.
P5: Climb up and left to a short corner with a pin and a fixed offset nut (5.10+ish). Climb straight up to a ledge and belay below a left-leaning undercling.
P6: Undercling left into the final stemming corner with bolts.(5.11+)
We didn't bring a topo and accidentally missed the last pitch by climbing up and right after the short corner with the pin, onto the Polish route? We rapped over the final pitch, it looks rad, we'll have to go back!
We brought a double set from black alien/purple C3 to #2Camalot and a single 3 camalot. Kevin ran it out a bit on the short offwidth below the crux, but the climbing wasn't bad. I believe we brought offset brass but I don't remember needing them. Pretty standard Hulk rack. One important NOTE: I think Neil mentions this route being set up for rappel with a 70 meter rope (Neil, did you rap with a 70?). We brought an 80 and found it crucial. Oh, and this beta we got from Jake proved accurate and helpful: from the base of the crux pitch you rappel climbers' left into the gully in one rap with the 80.
Hope this helps. What an amazing route. It deserves more attention.
Aug 20, 2011
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
Luke Stefurak   Seattle, WA
Some beta for rappeling:

You can rappel from the base of the crux into the gulley with a 70m rope. This anchor is the same as the P2 anchor for the polish route.

Do not try to rappel down to the fixed nut anchor on the polish route. Shenanigans or two ropes are required to get off.

Some of my friends tried to rappel the upper section of Blowhard with a 70m rope and ended up having to downclimb a few sections (NOT Recommended!!).

If rappelling Blowhard use an 80m rope! Jun 28, 2013
Katie and I climbed this yesterday and had a great time, though we got a little confused while using the new guide book and comparing with some of the comments on here...

some thoughts:

-the first half is pretty straightforward. the crux pitch is hard, though not in a bouldery way, more in a continuous way. next time i'll take a #4 camalot and TRIPLES in the tiny - .3 camalot size. back cleaning gear is not a good OS strategy...

- once you get to the top of the 4th pitch, things get a little confusing. maybe we had denial, but we just couldn't make the topo match up w the reality...so we climbed out the top of polish route...checked out the undercling flake which is more like 5.6 than 5.11+ and then gained some insights after the rappel.

-the 5.11+ (5th) pitch is around the corner to the left. the anchor is 2 bolts separated by 4' or so and connected by a bunch of tat.

-there is only 1 bolt at the base of the last pitch (the topo shows two)

-have fun Jun 7, 2017
Louis Mullerleile
Sacramento, California
  5.12
Louis Mullerleile   Sacramento, California
  5.12
Great route! Comparable in quality to Venturi, though not as long or as sustained.

Route finding beta after 4th pitch:
-From the anchor climb straight up to a bolt using the thin crack and arete, then a ledge to a piton, then I climbed over bulge/corner with a short 3" crack on the left. Once at the ledge/blocky section, you can see a corner with a series of small ledges to a 'left tending' undercling and a bolt below the 'sweet shallow bolted corner'-DO NOT GO THAT WAY(well at least if you want to stay on route). From the ledge, look directly left and walk/scramble around the corner to the bolted anchors below the awesome corner. I would recommend linking this corner with the second 'sweet shallow bolted corner' to the top :)

Rack thoughts:
-#4 is nice
-extra smaller stuff was perfect for the crux(especially 0.1-0.3 BD or black-green alien)



Aug 14, 2017
NEW PITCH ADDED TO BLOWHARD. In June 2018 Peter Croft and I added a super fun new pitch to Blowhard which eliminates the somewhat circuitous and not so classic 5.10 5th pitch where many climbers seem to get lost and continue instead onto the Polish Route. The new pitch is mega classic and also ups the ante for difficulty on Blowhard, clocking in at 5.12+, adding another fine "crux" pitch to the route. The pitch is all bolts, 8 of them, and no gear needed, and ends at the belay directly below the 6th pitch 5.11d dihedral which many parties seem to miss. It is also one of the best and steepest face pitches on the Hulk and makes Blowhard entirely independent.
Beta: On the pitch 4 perfect hand crack, follow it until it peeters out and turns to fingers, eventually requiring the climber to step left onto a small stance. Instead of heading up another 15 feet to the visible belay, place a piece on a sling and go directly left around the arete. A two bolt belay will be seen 10 feet to the left, and a 5.10+ traverse will get you there. The new pitch follows the obvious bolts up and left of the belay, is sure to get your sport climbing pump on, and makes Blowhard even better as one of the ultra-classics on the Hulk! Jul 1, 2018

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