Avg: 4 from 5 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Peter Croft and Andrew Stevens July 2004|
|Page Views:||8,950 total · 74/month|
|Shared By:||Neil Kauffman on Aug 29, 2010 with 1 Suggestions|
|Admins:||Chris Owen, Lurker, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
This thing is totally worth doing and typical of the Hulk: amazing rock, challenging climbing and pretty much one crack system the whole way.
P1: Climb the right-facing corner just left of the start of the Polish Route. Clip a bolt at the lip of the roof and climb over it on its left side (5.11) to face climbing past two more bolts. A bit of a runout on easier ground gets you up and right to two more bolts (5.12) to gain the thin crack. Climb this to a stance with one good bolt and a nut.
P2: Climb the crack system straight up and a bit left to the bolted anchor at the base of the crux pitch.(5.10)
P3: Climb the short offwidth to bolted face climbing to gain the crux splitter. Climb the splitter just left of the arete to a stance with a nice bolted anchor. (12+)
P4: Step right around the arete off the anchor and climb an awesome 5.10 splitter crack until a little after it pinches down to a finger crack. About 10’ below what looks like a ledge use some feet on the arete to move around left. You’ll see the anchors out left, protect high and figure out how to get to them. (11-/10a height dependent)
P5: Sport climb hard through 9 bolts and an optional .4” cam. (12+)
P6: Climb the stem corner overhead with a lot of small gear and some committing moves to a couple of bolts at the top. (5.11+)