Type: Mixed, Ice, 180 ft (55 m), Grade II
FA: the ancestors
Page Views: 61 total · 25/month
Shared By: Matthew Tangeman on Nov 28, 2024
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a seldom forming route tucked into the cliff band a little ways before First Gully. The first half of the pitch climbs a thin smear on a rock slab, then a thin ice or rock step leads to a steep pillar with ample opportunities for stemming onto the rock before finishing up some lower angle terrain. It is about a 50m pitch. Belay at two fixed nuts at the top of the ice.

The remains of tat at the belay were old enough to make me think this hasn't formed up for quite some time before Nov. 2024. I had never noticed it before, at least. This route somewhat matches the description of 'Le Drip', WI6 in Suffer Candy but may or may not be the same thing.

Location Suggest change

When hiking up the road towards First Gully, look for this pitch up in the cliff about 100m after rounding the prow of the OB Wall, shortly after passing the cable car below Stairway to Heaven.

Protection Suggest change

Ice screws (we placed two 7cm super stubbies on the lower slab), and a couple finger-sized cams also got placed.

Photos

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