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Routes in Eureka
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Burns' Gulch WI3 |
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Calling (aka Night Vision), The WI4 M3-4 PG13 |
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Captain Roos WI4-5 |
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Dukes of Hazzard (aka Crystal Cave?) T WI5-6 M6 |
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Eureka Gulch Ice WI3+ |
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Fat City T WI4+ |
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First Gully T WI3 |
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Giant Steps T WI5 |
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Goldrush T WI4- |
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Highway to Hell WI4 |
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Hoser's Highway WI5 PG13 |
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Hoser's Highway Righthand WI5- M4-5 |
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Just Another Gully Climb (JAGC) WI3 |
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Kleever, The T WI4- M6 |
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Larry WI3 |
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Mine Line S M8+ |
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Minnie Mouse/ Mickey Mouse T,TR WI3-4 |
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Moe WI4 |
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Niagaravation T M4-5 |
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On Ramp Slab Area WI3-4 M4 |
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Second Gully T WI3 |
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Stairway to Heaven T WI4 |
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Tempered By Fire T WI4 |
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Tempered Engagement S M5 |
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Unknown (far left on OB Wall) WI4 M4-5 PG13 |
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Unknown right of JAGC (AKA Crowd Control) T WI4+ M4-5 |
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Unknown Scrappy Gully WI3-4 M3-4 |
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Unknown Scrappy Pillar WI4+ M3 |
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Waiting Line S,TR M7 |
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White Trash WI4+ M6 |
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Zero Gully T WI3 M3+ Easy Snow PG13 |
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Zeroeth Gully WI2 |
| Elevation: | 9,873 ft | 3,009 m |
| GPS: |
37.8808, -107.5666 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 96,647 total · 304/month | |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Nov 29, 1999 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Uphill from Silverton is a beautiful area of long ice climbs on both sides of the road. Whore House Hoses, Stairway to Heaven are among the classics. Beware however, avalanche risk can be tremendous. Some of these fine classics are in the sun and some are in the shade. Routes here can exceed 1000ft in length.
Getting There
Take US Hwy 550 south of Red Mountain Pass (S of Ouray) to Silverton. Continue up the main drainage and only significant plowed road uphill as far as you can. Hike the rest of the way on the road. Avalanche debris may cross the road. The climbs are obvious from the road. Beware of avalanche slopes on the way in and out!
Per Paul Morrison: sometime after the publication of Jack Roberts's guidebook (2005), San Juan County changed some road numbers. In Silverton, turn right on County Road #2 to reach Eureka. Following County Road #110 will take you to a completely different canyon. Jason Nelson's book (2019) has the current road designation.
A bit of history from Sandy East with a focus on Billy Roos
Per
: Billy Roos told me about this area in the early 1980s (Eureka). He was a course leader for Outward Bound and spent time in this zone. Billy was a amazing alpinist, mountaineer, high altitude chaperone, builder, and gear tweakier, but most of all Billy was a great friend and mentor to so many of us up and coming guides with the International Alpine School. Charlie Fowler and I skied into this zone (the road was not plowed in those days). We climbed what is Stairway to Heaven, and that is what we named it and it stuck. This was in the early 1980s - there were not many climbers around during that time. Billy and I came back later that year and climbed WHH (now renamed by SE to Billy Roos). It's a story from the Miners Union bar how it got named that. Charlie, Billy, and I had no idea that these climbs would become so popular due to the approach - I think 6 or 7 miles skiing in. Times change, I know the name. WHH should also change. Billy was a good friend to all and has a list of amazing first ascents in Colorado and abroad.
Please help me in honoring Billy who died of Cancer 8years ago.
Classic Climbing Routes at Eureka
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