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Routes in Eureka

Type: Mixed, Ice, 1000 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: ??
Page Views: 592 total · 7/month
Shared By: C. Trimble on Dec 29, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is yet another long, unknown mystery gully in Eureka with lots of steep snow wallowing and easy ice, with three distinct pitches.

The first one is an obvious, short, sunny pillar (it was sun-rotted & detached, so we bypassed it via an interesting, loose mixed pitch to the right).

The second pitch climbs a buttery-blue short steep step to the upper gully.

Slog/solo up the long upper gully to the headwall pitch, a beautiful thin runnel that we climbed on the right side to top out.

This route has lots of snow-wallowing (extremely dangerous in bad snow conditions), wild position, very alpine feel. I have no idea what it's called, "HH Righthand" is just a guess.

Location

This is located between Hoser's Highway and Stairway to Heaven, roughly above "the on ramp" slab ice. We approached just right of Hoser's then slogged up and right to gain the gully.

Protection

Ice screws (bring stubbies), rock gear, slings for the descent. We did 5 rappels off tress/rock spikes looker's right of the gully.

Photos

My recollection is that passing the first step on the left is only marginally chossy. Jan 1, 2012

More About Hoser's Highway Righthand

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