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Routes in Eureka

Burns' Gulch WI3-4
Calling (aka Night Vision), The WI4 M3-4 PG13
Dukes of Hazzard T WI5-6 M6
Eureka Gulch Ice WI3+
Fat City T WI4-5
First Gully T WI3
Goldrush T WI4
Goofy Gully T WI4 M4-5
Highway to Hell WI4+
Hoser's Highway WI5 PG13
Hoser's Highway Righthand WI5- M4-5
Kleever, The T WI4- M6
Larry WI3
Middle Minnie T WI3 M3
Minnie Mouse/ Mickey Mouse T,TR WI3-4
Moe WI4
Niagaravation T M4-5
On Ramp Slab Area WI3-4 M4
Second Gully T WI3
Stairway to Heaven T WI4
Tempered By Fire T WI4
Tempered Engagement S M5-6
Unknown (far left on OB Wall) WI4 M4-5 PG13
Unknown Scrappy Gully WI3-4 M3-4
Waiting Line S,TR M7
White Trash WI4+ M6
Whorehouse Hoses WI4-5
Type: Mixed, Ice, 1000 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: ??
Page Views: 560 total, 8/month
Shared By: C. Trimble on Dec 29, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is yet another long, unknown mystery gully in Eureka with lots of steep snow wallowing and easy ice, with three distinct pitches.

The first one is an obvious, short, sunny pillar (it was sun-rotted & detached, so we bypassed it via an interesting, loose mixed pitch to the right).

The second pitch climbs a buttery-blue short steep step to the upper gully.

Slog/solo up the long upper gully to the headwall pitch, a beautiful thin runnel that we climbed on the right side to top out.

This route has lots of snow-wallowing (extremely dangerous in bad snow conditions), wild position, very alpine feel. I have no idea what it's called, "HH Righthand" is just a guess.

Location

This is located between Hoser's Highway and Stairway to Heaven, roughly above "the on ramp" slab ice. We approached just right of Hoser's then slogged up and right to gain the gully.

Protection

Ice screws (bring stubbies), rock gear, slings for the descent. We did 5 rappels off tress/rock spikes looker's right of the gully.

Photos

My recollection is that passing the first step on the left is only marginally chossy. Jan 1, 2012