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Routes in Eureka

Type: Ice, 900 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,093 total, 21/month
Shared By: IanA on Dec 4, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Northern most climb on Peak 13,419. Climbers left of Stairway to Heaven. Route follows two parallel gullies, the right one is slightly more difficult than the left. Left gully's crux is a thin pillar midway up the route while the right gully's crux comes higher up near the top. Climb normally consists of four steep sections of ice with minimal slogging in between. Early season if ice has not fully fill in, you could experience a small section of mixed.

Descend by walking off to the left. Good route finding is advised or rap the route on v-threads.

Location

This is to the left of Stairway to Heaven.

Two options exist:

Option 1: Approach the same as Stairway Heaven but head up and left crossing on a snow slope with a small grove of aspens. Drop in to gully directly below climb and wallow up to the obvious start of the ice. Long but not as steep as option 2.

Option 2: Walk up road till you are directly below climb. Cross river on the avalanche debris pile and wallow up the gully to the base of the climb. Recommended (check avy conditions before you do this)

Protection

Screws (a variety of sizes), some rock pro might be handy.
Not sure why you would want to approach from STH. Just solo up the approach ice in the obvious gully. We installed a new rock anchor at the top of the last pitch (off right, black webbing). Straighforward descent with v-threads & downclimbing. This is an amazing climb, it should be climbed more. Good when every other route has a line.... Nov 23, 2010