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Routes in Eureka

Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 750 ft, 5 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Jack Cramer, Grant Kleeves?
Page Views: 523 total · 15/month
Shared By: Grant Kleeves on May 25, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is a good choice if you are tired of waiting in the conga line on STH or Whorehouse. There is adventure to be had and even a little ice.

P1. Climb an easy corner with chockstones to an ice pillar. Stem and chimney to gain the pillar on the right side. Follow ice to the BD #3 crack, then step left to finish on a right-facing corner. Continue up an easy but loose ledges. Belay below the chimney; M5, 130 feet, JC.

P2. Climb the obvious corner/chimney. Find delicate climbing on loose rock in the chimney and on the face to the left until the crux squeeze section below a chockstone. Belay on a bushy ledge in a BD #1-2 crack; D5 (5.8 squeeze), 100 feet, GK.

P3. Walk around the bushes and into the chimney. Ascend moderate chimney climbing with good feet straight up until the chimney narrows. Place a BD #4, and step left past bushes to a loose corner. Climb the corner with a tricky move (a BD #5 is nice), and continue on easier ground to a belay beneath another chimney with a short ice step; D4 (5.7), 190 feet, JC.

P4. Climb over a few chockstones in the corner to gain the wider chimney and the ice. Climb the ice using stems and chimneying for rests. Continue up the insecure corner on chockstones and torques to gain lower angled terrain. Belay at a stance to the right of an ice runnel; WI4 M6, 180 feet, GK.

P5. Climb broken terrain to the right of the ice while being careful of loose rock. Gain the main ice flow, and climb it until it ends at a chockstone. Broken terrain and snow lead to a tree and the final belay; WI3+ M3, 150 feet, JC.

Traverse the loose, vegetated ledges to the left as far as possible, and descend via trees (x2), then v-threads (x2), and a final pin anchor (5 rappels).


About three hundred feet climber's right of "The Calling," this is the next obvious chimney/corner system.


3-4 short screws, a single rack to 5 with doubles from BD 0.4-2, 4-5 pins (KBs, LAs, Beaks). Don't skimp on the big cam and pins.


All these routes were climbed long ago, when they came in, which is very rare.
Yes they do get icy with plenty of moisture and cloud cover, which doesn't happen often. Oct 6, 2015

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