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Routes in Eureka

Type: Mixed, Ice, 650 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,243 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ben Kiessel on Feb 5, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Pitch 1: Climb thin ice and mixed lower angle terrain to a belay on the right. We noticed a fixed pin at our feet where we belayed. About 150'.

Pitch 2: Climb two steps of mostly ice (a little steeper) to a belay directly under the chockstones. There is a bail anchor (fixed pin and stopper) at this belay. About 190'.

Pitch 3: Climb out the roof with good rock gear. Belay on top of the chockstones. About 50'.

Pitch 4: Walk up snow to the base of the curtain above. About 200+'.

Pitch 5: Climb rock and ice up to a belay at the base of a thin couloir. About 90'.

Pitch 6: Walk up the thin couloir for about 100' to a break on its right side. Continue up and right to a group of trees. About 200'.

Descent: The easiest way to get back down is to rappel 'The Calling'. We were able to rappel down and right to the tree in the middle of pitch 5 of 'The Calling' then did a short rappel to the anchor on top of pitch 4. Then 3 more 55m raps to the ground all on fixed pins.

Note: We climbed this in pretty healthy conditions.

Location

This route is about 100 yards left of "The Calling".

Protection

Screws, nuts, double to #0.5 Camalot, single #0.75 to #4 Camalot, two 60 meter ropes.
This is my favorite route in Eureka. It is not a straight up ice climb for hundreds of feet. It will keep your attention on rock and thin ice. Get after it as I have never seen this climb form in the last 5 years. Enjoy! Feb 7, 2011