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Routes in Eureka

Burns' Gulch WI3-4
Calling (aka Night Vision), The WI4 M3-4 PG13
Dukes of Hazzard T WI5-6 M6
Eureka Gulch Ice WI3+
Fat City T WI4-5
First Gully T WI3
Goldrush T WI4
Goofy Gully T WI4 M4-5
Highway to Hell WI4+
Hoser's Highway WI5 PG13
Hoser's Highway Righthand WI5- M4-5
Kleever, The T WI4- M6
Larry WI3
Middle Minnie T WI3 M3
Minnie Mouse/ Mickey Mouse T,TR WI3-4
Moe WI4
Niagaravation T M4-5
On Ramp Slab Area WI3-4 M4
Second Gully T WI3
Stairway to Heaven T WI4
Tempered By Fire T WI4
Tempered Engagement S M5-6
Unknown (far left on OB Wall) WI4 M4-5 PG13
Unknown Scrappy Gully WI3-4 M3-4
Waiting Line S,TR M7
White Trash WI4+ M6
Whorehouse Hoses WI4-5
Type: Mixed, Ice, 700 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,640 total, 32/month
Shared By: IanA on Jan 17, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the most prominent/ obvious flow on the Outward Bound Wall. The guidebook calls this route 4 pitches, but we broke it into 5 to minimize rope drag and maximize belayer comfort/protection from falling ice.

Pitch 1: M3-4, 40m. This pitch can either be good ice, easy mixed or pure rock. Climb up to pin anchor on the right of the flow.

Pitch 2: WI3 30m This pitch follows a left-leaning ramp build an anchor just below the pillar.

Pitch 3: WI4/4+, 30m. Climb up nice curtain to a short, steep pillar. Belay off pin anchor on the right.

Pitch 4: WI3, 60m. Climb a short steep section or traverse further right to avoid the steep stuff and continue up rock/ice grove to pin anchor on the left.

Pitch 5: WI3, 50m. Climb easy ice and snow to a belay stance on the left at the top of the ice.

Descent: Continue up snow to big tree on the left that has slings on it. Rap 1: Do a full 60m rap to a good snow ledge. Be careful to not rap off the ends on the rope. Rap 2: (either downclimb to the anchor atop pitch 4 10m below you or climb up to small tree and rig short rappel to pin anchor on left.) Rap 3: 50m rap down to the pin anchor atop pitch 3. Rap 4: 50m down the steep pillar to pin anchor top pitch 1 on the right of the flow. (might be covered in ice). Rap 5: 40m to the ground.

Location

Hike up the road into Eureka just like you were going to do the gullies. Just after you pass the Outward Bound hut on your right, start going uphill (left) through the trees to the base of the climb.

Protection

Two ropes, lots of stubby ice screws, a good selection of pins, nuts and a few small cams (green Alien to #0.75 Camalot).
e Dixon
Durango, Colorado
  WI4 M3-4
e Dixon   Durango, Colorado
  WI4 M3-4
This was a great route, and I was psyched we finally got to do it! Seems like catching this thing in the right conditions is the crux. This wall gets baked with sun, you need a cloudy/cool day. Jul 9, 2011
eggman
Durango, co
eggman   Durango, co
I've also heard this one called Night Vision...the main chimney/chockstone route to the climber's left is White Trash. Jan 19, 2011