Type: Trad, Mixed, 120 ft (36 m), Grade II
FA: FRA: Stephen Berwanger and Kevin Craig
Page Views: 1,096 total · 13/month
Shared By: Stephen Berwanger on Sep 28, 2014
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route

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This is a fun, 1 pitch route that comes in super early!!! way before anything in the Eureka Valley forms this route freezes on NE face of Niagara Peak. Start with a short, thin pillar to a thin slab. The top 60' goes around M4-5. We found it pretty delaminated and tough for screw placements. You can get some rock gear around, but it is a little tough to find (maybe PG-13?). The rock above was crap for belay/rappel. We left 2 pieces of rock gear, but I wouldn't call it a "fixed anchor"!


Take Eureka Road to Burns Gulch 4X4 road. We used ATVs in early October, but depending on conditions, drive/ ski/ snowmobile as far as you can up Burns Gulch. The route is on the lower left of NE face of Niagara Peak. We got close to end of road, and the approach was approximately 45 minutes - 1 hour.


Stubby screws (10s, 13s), a single set cams to #2, and a single set of stoppers.