Type: Trad, Ice, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,220 total · 43/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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A fat, fun climb that offers about 800 feet of stepped ice with minimal snow slogging. Descent is best made by walking off to the climbers right at about 3/4 height. This takes you down a few snow filled gullies to the base of Goldrush. Multiple v-threads are usualy fixed, BUT THINK BEFORE YOU THREAD - ALL THAT NYLON GOES SOMEWHERE IN THE SPRING!!!!

This is a good climb for a solid leader in the grade looking to play in the mountains!

This is the second obvious, ice-choked gully on your left as you round the large buttress just past the Outward Bound Hotel. The approach from the parking lot is about 1/2 mile and is usually well packed making snow shoes/skis not always mandatory.


Ice screws.
Jesse Morehouse   CO
The best climb in the area for WI3 climbers. Also a great intro to long ice routes for those just breaking free of the ice park.

Rob Schichtel
Cortez, CO
Rob Schichtel   Cortez, CO
The route now has permanent anchors at the end of P1 and P2. Walk off climber's left off the top of route and circle around to top of P2 where you can walk off the rest of route climber's right. This puts you at the start of Goldrush. Dec 12, 2008
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
Ryan N   Bellingham, WA
Great lead for the grade. It's generally very hard ice with only short 15-20ft vertical steps. It can get very cold and windy up there, dress warmly. Also it has a great view of STH from the top. Oct 13, 2012
There are no longer fixed anchors at the top of pitch 1 and 2. Not sure why, since the bolts have been there probably over a decade, but someone decided to do a half-assed chop job and cut the hangers in half. Doubt you could just replace the hangers, since all bolts are covered with an epoxy, but it could be possible since the bolts weren't cut. There are small trees at each belay that can be used as anchors. The anchors at the top of the third pitch and to rap down part of the walkoff are still there. Nov 27, 2015
Don't need bolts on fat ice, and they haven't been there for a decade. They showed up when SJMG thought they owned the mountains, just like you haven't been in T-ride or an ice climber for a decade. Used to simply walk off or rap on trees or v-threads. First set of bolts always disappear in the deep snow any way. Learn how to properly ice climb, leave the crag mentality behind. Dec 3, 2015
Clearly, we don't know each other, James2.

Previous post was just an update on the current condition of a highly traveled climb that is often recommended to beginners. Plan appropriately. Dec 7, 2015
Just for argument's sake, 2 good bolts is cleaner safer and less trash than tat on trees and nylon v-threads with quicklinks. Just my opinion. Jan 4, 2016
amerotrash H
Durango, CO
amerotrash H   Durango, CO
Last year I properly removed the sabotaged anchors and replaced them with Fixe SS Trad anchors. The tat situation was getting out of hand, and the tree that was used for the 2nd anchor had fallen over and become dangerous. There were slings around multiple trees all over the route as well as random v-threads everywhere.

Even though there are fixed anchors now, you should walk off the route, because it is becoming popular, especially on weekends, and the walk off is actually the fastest and best way to get down anyway. To walk off, head East from the 3rd set of anchors.

Eureka isn't exactly the wilderness, as you may have noticed a mining adit at the base of the climb, mining debris everywhere, and sport climbs very near to where you park. The first set of anchors can get buried in snow late in the season, but you really shouldn't be climbing here late in the season anyway because of the avi danger. They are easy enough to dig out.

There is plenty of wilderness and remote ice to go be rad on, especially if you have a sled and a taste for adventure. If you cherish that ethic, go practice it instead of sloppily chopping classic moderate route anchors. Oct 24, 2018