Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 800 ft (242 m), 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: this is an undocumented sliver of ice that comes in once a generation?
Page Views: 51 total · 35/month
Shared By: Eric Wright on Feb 4, 2025
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This fun sliver of ice might form generationally.

We climbed it Saturday November 16, 2024 after a huge early season storm cycle that filled in all sorts of ice lines in the San Juans, that have been marginal the last decade. I have never seen it before nor has anyone I have spoken with. This shallow gully is a rope length or two just left, before reaching the much more reliable First Gully as one trudges up the road from the car park. Bring a rock rack, as there is rarely enough ice to build belays, and rock belays off to the side might help keep your partner from dropping things on your head. There is a fun short step at the top of the gully that is harder than any other part of the gully.

From the top, one can see into First Gully with its shiny, new-ish fixed bolted rap anchors…, but don’t rap on a party climbing First Gully:-) Or one could just rap off the plethora of trees lining the route.

Location Suggest change

It is just a rope length or two left of the start of First Gully.

Protection Suggest change

There is currently as of early November 2024 no fixed pro - no bolts, pins, or stuck cams. There is some rap tat on trees that we placed, but other than that, there is nothing.

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