Type: Trad, TR, 82 ft (25 m)
GPS: 34.746, -98.5316
FA: unknown
Page Views: 362 total · 9/month
Shared By: Miles Johnson on Aug 17, 2022
Admins: Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Mellow CornER starts beneath the large detached flake sitting on a shelf 8’ off the ground. Layback here and work up the flake on fun moves to a good stance. Give it a good thump to enjoy the drum. If it cuts you in half, you probably shouldn’t have punched the flake.

Pro is available in the BD2 range. Now find bomber feet and jugs with BD0.75-1 to climb up into the left facing corner with BD5-6 pro available in the back crack. Slab walk, scum, or shimmy up this section and then work the left-running crack up to the belay ledge marked by the old cedar. Hidden finger and thin hands pro available if you run out of wide gear. 

Building an anchor on this cedar or in the cracks adjacent to it will put the tails of a 50m in a short loop on the deck. A 40m from this anchor will not reach like a 40m will for the 3 roof crack climbs to the west.

Location Suggest change

Topside Access (quick): Park at the top of UMS and walk downhill 6 posts. Look down between a gap in the rocks and spot the boulder with a pink top. Head towards it (this marks Romper Room). When you get near there, head east or right along the cliffside/slab under the overhang and where you begin to feel exposure you should see a narrow walkway to the old cedar. There is also a vertical crack on this slab that would work for TR'ing the Undocumented Line, Two Trojans & Mellow CornER. It will be too far west for most people's comfort level if they tried Wolfman due to swing.

Bottom Access: scramble down to the base of UMS and walk 3-5 minutes passing Mr Green Slings by 50’ which can be identified by a right facing mini roof about 35’ off the deck. You will now see the mossy slabs where Wolfman, Two Trojans, and Mellow CornER are. Just beyond to the west you may see Roof Crack and 5.10 Roof Corner which means you are 20-30’ too far west.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack plus BD6-7 depending on your comfort level in scummy corners and a BD5 for the slab traverse if you feel like protecting it. Gear the whole way so no safety rating is applicable. Climbing this without BD6-7 is definitely PG13 for part of the corner section. 

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