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Routes in Upper Mount Scott

ARC TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arm Bar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Atomic Elbow Drop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Atomic Knee Drop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Baldielox Buldge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down for the Count T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Foolish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Foolish Behavior T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Frankly Scarlet T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Groove rat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hern, Frank Thing T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Locomotive Breath T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mr. Green Slings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pile Driver T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pile Driver Variation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirates of Lawtonka TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Roof Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleeper, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spinning Back Kick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Toprope Route S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Two Trojans T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wendy's Salad Bar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wolfman's Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yee Haw T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yee Haw J.T. (Just Traverse) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yee Haw Variation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
unnamed off-width crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,636 total, 12/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 9, 2006
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

One of the better climbs on Upper Mount Scott. Climb the stellar hand crack that splits the dihedral. The crack narrows at the top, and then ends about one third of the way up. From here move right and work up the face on small edges. The climbing is pretty positive, but the protection is negligible and deserves the “R” rating. Continue face climbing until you can work back to the left and top out using another thin crack. The crux is the transition between the two cracks. Fun, thoughtful route.

Location

From the ledge at the start of The Sleeper, scramble down and around to the blocks below. Foolish climbs the hand crack in the corner with a dark water streak above it.

Protection

Standard rack, small gear at the crux. Anchor off trees.
Joseph Aja
Flower Mound, Texas
5.8 R
Joseph Aja   Flower Mound, Texas
5.8 R
A very exciting lead! The crux move occurs at the top right corner of the first crack and is easily protectable. From there its a decent run-out to the second crack; a fall nearing the second crack is a sure deck, but the holds are very positive. Jun 18, 2017
Herndon  
This, and all of the routes between Foolish Behavior to the left side of the cliff are great to learn on. Many classes set up top ropes and teach folks on them. Jan 17, 2016
DGraham
Dallas
  5.7 R
DGraham   Dallas
  5.7 R
The deck is most definitely in play (which would make this an X route) but yes the ledges are good. bring an extra .5 piece for where the crack stops. Oct 26, 2015
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8 R
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.8 R
What a great lead! The runout on top is a bit sketchy but the holds are solid. Apr 8, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
While the R rating is absolutely warranted, seeing that a falling off the upper crack could land you on the deck. I really see the run out section as maybe 5.5 or even 5.6, with such good holds and such a positive crack. I would suggest, this is just not equal of a sustained 5.8R, if you get my drift. Feb 25, 2008