Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 670 total · 5/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Dec 15, 2006
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Crux is getting off the deck. Fist and foot jams get things started 10 feet to a ledge. Then follow the flake to the right or the black water streak. Use the crack to the left of the water streak. Crack has good gear, great stances and finishes up on the big spacious ledge.

Location

The crack 15 feet to the right of Pile Driver. Scramble down or rap off the tree.

Protection

Cams to #3 with no anchors

Photos

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Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9 X
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9 X
There is clearly some misinformation on this route. The start is a hard 5.9 horizontal hand/foot crack boulder problem that leaves your feet up and back to the ground with a fall onto a back breaking block. Once you pull this and walk up a 5.5 ledge the crack is unprotectable for ~4 moves. My bro Clay then down climbed - utter rubbish.

View the ticks for another similar report... Sep 14, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.6
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.6
If you don't enjoy off-width climbing. Then you should probably avoid this route. Sep 15, 2015
Clay Studer
Dallas, TX
 
Clay Studer   Dallas, TX
 
I'll throw in my comment here. First, the route is probably best on TR for those not looking for a runout as pro above that first ledge seemed very marginal until much higher up with ground fall potential. Second, the start is not 5.6 though there are good hand jams. The lack of really good feet to get on the ledge make it awkward. I don't think I'd call it 5.9 but it certainly didn't feel 5.6. All that is basically saying that I think the grade in the guidebook does not reflect the difficulty of the start or the seriousness of the route. Sep 16, 2015