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Routes in Upper Mount Scott

ARC TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arm Bar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Atomic Elbow Drop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Atomic Knee Drop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Baldielox Buldge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down for the Count T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Foolish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Foolish Behavior T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Frankly Scarlet T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Groove rat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hern, Frank Thing T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Locomotive Breath T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mr. Green Slings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pile Driver T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pile Driver Variation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirates of Lawtonka TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Roof Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleeper, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spinning Back Kick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Toprope Route S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Two Trojans T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wendy's Salad Bar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wolfman's Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yee Haw T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yee Haw J.T. (Just Traverse) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yee Haw Variation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
unnamed off-width crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 613 total, 5/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Dec 15, 2006
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Crux is getting off the deck. Fist and foot jams get things started 10 feet to a ledge. Then follow the flake to the right or the black water streak. Use the crack to the left of the water streak. Crack has good gear, great stances and finishes up on the big spacious ledge.

Location

The crack 15 feet to the right of Pile Driver. Scramble down or rap off the tree.

Protection

Cams to #3 with no anchors

Photos

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Clay Studer
Dallas, TX
 
Clay Studer   Dallas, TX
 
I'll throw in my comment here. First, the route is probably best on TR for those not looking for a runout as pro above that first ledge seemed very marginal until much higher up with ground fall potential. Second, the start is not 5.6 though there are good hand jams. The lack of really good feet to get on the ledge make it awkward. I don't think I'd call it 5.9 but it certainly didn't feel 5.6. All that is basically saying that I think the grade in the guidebook does not reflect the difficulty of the start or the seriousness of the route. Sep 16, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
If you don't enjoy off-width climbing. Then you should probably avoid this route. Sep 15, 2015
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9 X
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9 X
There is clearly some misinformation on this route. The start is a hard 5.9 horizontal hand/foot crack boulder problem that leaves your feet up and back to the ground with a fall onto a back breaking block. Once you pull this and walk up a 5.5 ledge the crack is unprotectable for ~4 moves. My bro Clay then down climbed - utter rubbish.

View the ticks for another similar report... Sep 14, 2015