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Routes in Upper Mount Scott

ARC TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arm Bar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Atomic Elbow Drop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Atomic Knee Drop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Baldielox Buldge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down for the Count T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Foolish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Foolish Behavior T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Frankly Scarlet T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Groove rat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hern, Frank Thing T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Locomotive Breath T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mr. Green Slings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pile Driver T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pile Driver Variation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirates of Lawtonka TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Roof Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleeper, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spinning Back Kick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Toprope Route S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Two Trojans T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wendy's Salad Bar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wolfman's Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yee Haw T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yee Haw J.T. (Just Traverse) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yee Haw Variation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
unnamed off-width crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
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Shared By: Steve Marr on Nov 9, 2006
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Climb the short, easy crack at the back of a shallow dihedral past a horizontal crack to a ledge. This is where the fun starts. Climb the face above the ledge with a crack and headwall on the left to an overhang. The face is covered with lichen and is smooth, making the stance below the roof difficult to maintain for long. The crux is pulling through the roof. The crux moves protect very well with a large cam (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) and a large stopper above the roof. Match hands on the crack, lean away, and through up a heel. Transfer your weight and mantle up to a good stance above the roof. Continue up the crack and walk off the top.

Location

Located about half way down the wall. There is a large cedar tree on the upper ledge that marks the top of a couple of bolted routes. From these bolted routes, continue down the wall past a nice hand crack that splits the entire wall (Yee Haw). Look for a somewhat rotten looking crack in the back of a shallow dihedral with a small roof higher up on the route.

Protection

Standard rack, bring a #3.5 or #4 Camalot for the crux. Anchor off trees.

Photos

Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9 PG13
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.9 PG13
Easy climbing to the first ledge right before the slick slab and roof crux. I guessed I missed the easy hands free back step (as Craig mentions above ^^^) because pulling over the roof is a pretty stout move, felt more like 5.9. There are two cracks that run up the roof, the one on the right is thin but offers a great high right hand. From here you can work your hands higher, throw a foot up and make the move to get over.

Protects well .75 to #4. I placed a #3 right below the roof and now see in the notes above about placing a nut in the crack. If you do/can place a nut up high that would really protect the crux because having pro beneath the roof and taking a fall off the bulge would whip you hard into the face underneath. So PG-13 with pro underneath the roof, however, if you can get a nut/cam in the crack above the roof before pulling the crux should be good to go.

Awesome climb and a must do on upper MS. Oct 12, 2015
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
 
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
 
I must have misread this climb something fierce, haha. Took multiple falls at the crux trying to figure out how to get my body over that freakin' bulge!! Great climb, super fun and interesting moves on great rock! Jan 24, 2014
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
 
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
 
BETA ALERT!... Enjoying the benefit of watching my partner pump out and peel trying to protect the crux roof, I took the lead. I breezed up to his high point, a stupid easy back step high on the left atop the right facing corner provided a no-hands stance for a relaxing gear placement. The crux section is 5.7 from this stance, least according to my measure. A good route to break into 5.8's. Nov 30, 2011