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Routes in Upper Mount Scott

ARC TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Arm Bar T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Atomic Elbow Drop T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Atomic Knee Drop T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Baldielox Buldge T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Down for the Count T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Foolish T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Foolish Behavior T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Frankly Scarlet T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Groove rat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hern, Frank Thing T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Locomotive Breath T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Mr. Green Slings T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Off the Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pile Driver T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pile Driver Variation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirates of Lawtonka TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Roof Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Roof Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Sleeper, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spinning Back Kick T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Toprope Route S,TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Two Trojans T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Wendy's Salad Bar TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wolfman's Route TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yee Haw T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yee Haw J.T. (Just Traverse) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Yee Haw Variation T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
unnamed off-width crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Marion Hutchinson, Duane Raleigh 1982
Page Views: 4,387 total · 30/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Dec 15, 2006
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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Climb the crack and exit left to bolt then climb the face.

Location

10 feet to the right of Foolish.

Protection

1st placement #1 Link-cam (estimated #1 BD), 2nd placement was a #2 BD, 3rd was a double placement of a #2 BDC3 and #1BDC3 (You can fit in a #.75 BD or possibly a #1 BD down around your waist in the last stance of the crack. 2-quickdraws for the 2 bolts, no anchors.

Safety Issue

If water is running down the streak to the right of Top Rope Route then most likely, when you turn the lip, it is slopey, and can be seriously slick. Before you know it, you could be burning rubber and sandpapering fingertips all the way down to the top of that hand crack 35' down the wall!

Falling notes: While whipping off this route a few times, escaping relatively unscathed. I found that once the rapid descent started, that skidding my feet trying to keep my hands off the wall seemed to work best to avoid the road rashed tips.
Andy Chasteen
Oklahoma City, OK
Andy Chasteen   Oklahoma City, OK
Probably deserves an R rating for the runout at the top from the last bolt. I've seen a nasty whipper come off the top. Jan 28, 2008
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.9+
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.9+
I would agree that this route whips like an R, but seeing that the deck is out of play, I gotta stay with PG-13. Sep 14, 2009
Brent Butcher
  5.10-
Brent Butcher  
  5.10-
The fall is fun and into nothing, so I probably wouldn't give it a R rating, just PG13. Sep 24, 2011
Chris Walden
Soldotna, Alaska
  5.10a/b PG13
Chris Walden   Soldotna, Alaska
  5.10a/b PG13
Whoo buddy! Solid route. After the crack runs out the last bolt would make for a nice fall. Not so sure the deck is out of play taking a whipper from the top? PG13/R. We ultimately bailed on lead and flashed it on TR. Slab section is really crimpy with nice technical moves across the face. Apr 8, 2015
Craig Childre
Lubbock, Texas
  5.9+
Craig Childre   Lubbock, Texas
  5.9+
My personal experience. I was like 1 or 2 moves from topping this line out and peeled off. I had 10-15 feet to spare. If you got a soft catch or weighed significantly more than your belayer, it might stretch down to the deck. It's the longest fall I've ever taken. Deck or not, it's one hell of a wild ride! Apr 8, 2015
Herndon  
A great route, probably the best on Upper Mount Scott. It is a little run out. I would say that it is much harder than S Wall at Quartz, a similar climb. Stiff for 5.9, and pro is below your feet. So be solid at the grade, and then it will be a lot of fun. Jan 17, 2016
Really solid route. Took my first lead fall on this one. Fell from the last 2 or 3 moves below the end of the crack. Not sure how far it was but I know it went by really fast. The ground is probably out of play but I hit my heel very hard on the lip of the crack coming down. Still not sure how it happened but it took months to heal. Know your ability before jumping on this one. The credit card size holds are no joke. Jun 20, 2016
Tristan Bradford
Oklahoma City, OK
 
Tristan Bradford   Oklahoma City, OK
 
Guyssss its like 5.8 Oct 22, 2017
Jonathan Field
Tulsa, OK
 
Jonathan Field   Tulsa, OK
 
No way it's a 5.8. Definitely had multiple moves above the bolts that were more difficult than those of Nike Route (5.8) - Elk Slabs. The last couple of moves lacked any edges for hands, which made it extra heady and insecure. Jan 29, 2018

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