Foolish Behavior
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Marion Hutchinson, Duane Raleigh 1982 |
Page Views: | 6,857 total · 31/month |
Shared By: | Craig Childre on Dec 15, 2006 |
Admins: | Ryan Sheldon, Drew Nevius, Kevin Diaz |
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Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
Protection
1st placement #1 Link-cam (estimated #1 BD), 2nd placement was a #2 BD, 3rd was a double placement of a #2 BDC3 and #1BDC3 (You can fit in a #.75 BD or possibly a #1 BD down around your waist in the last stance of the crack. 2-quickdraws for the 2 bolts, no anchors.
Safety Issue
If water is running down the streak to the right of Top Rope Route then most likely, when you turn the lip, it is slopey, and can be seriously slick. Before you know it, you could be burning rubber and sandpapering fingertips all the way down to the top of that hand crack 35' down the wall!
Falling notes: While whipping off this route a few times, escaping relatively unscathed. I found that once the rapid descent started, that skidding my feet trying to keep my hands off the wall seemed to work best to avoid the road rashed tips.
Falling notes: While whipping off this route a few times, escaping relatively unscathed. I found that once the rapid descent started, that skidding my feet trying to keep my hands off the wall seemed to work best to avoid the road rashed tips.
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