Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mark Herndon
Page Views: 1,376 total · 9/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Dec 15, 2006
Admins: Drew Nevius

You & This Route


20 Opinions

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Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Good introduction to roof climbing. Turning the roof is the crux.

Location

Roof crack in a huge boulder.

Protection

Gear to #3, no anchor.

Photos

jcomp
OKC, OK
  5.9+
jcomp   OKC, OK
  5.9+
This is an excellent route. Challenging and exciting. The crux is continually hard. The start has some questionable rock with stiff moves to open but the top is a beautiful hand crack problem. There are various ways to pull the crux just don't forget to use your feet! The jams are solid and the gear placements plentiful. Jun 10, 2007
I soloed the FA's of this one and Roof Corner to the right in about twenty minutes. Jon Frank was there and gave them lame names. Never thought anyone would even do these things back then. I rated them both .10a. Had to climb up and down Roof Crack a couple of times to milk the handjams right. Way harder than Hobbit Roof in JTree, but almost identical.

I wanted to name them Crack of Noon (roof) and Piece of Crack (corner). The corner one is kind of awkward and crappy. Piece of Crap would also be a good name. Feb 6, 2010
C Archibolt
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
C Archibolt   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
I enjoyed this route. The fun parts are short, unfortunately. Jan 13, 2014
Joseph Aja
Boulder, CO
  5.9+
Joseph Aja   Boulder, CO
  5.9+
There is now a pair of bolts with a rap ring about 10-15ft to the right of the top of the climb. I climbed roof crack, built an anchor, belayed up my second, and then he traversed over to the bolts while still on belay but that wasn't even totally necessary. May 9, 2017