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Lucky 13
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 5
votes
Routes in Bad Man Mezzanine/Lower and Upper Terraces
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Alias Bandit Bench T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Beyond Destiny T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Corona S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dos Equis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Drop Zone T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Gary and Phyllis' Headwall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Lucky 13 S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Miller Time T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Red Line T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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True Grit T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Twinkle Toes Traverse T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
| Type: | Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.49788, -121.20254 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 896 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Jan 13, 2021 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
This is a really well-protected and enjoyable climb. It starts out steep at the beginning, but the difficulty eases as you get higher on the route. The first pitch has 13-14 bolts(hangers have gone missing and been replaced over the years) and is rated 5.9.
The second pitch, which is shared with Alias Bandit Bench, traverses left past six bolts to a water streak which is climbed up past two more bolts to a two-bolt anchor. Most people who do the second pitch choose not to belay at this anchor. Instead they climb up 25 feet to the rappel anchor with chains.
If you do just the first pitch you can rappel about 75' back to the base of the climb from double bolts and chains.
If you choose to do the second pitch do two single rope rappels. The first is about 75' to double bolts with chains just above the lip of an overhang. The second rappel is mostly free-hanging. Beware of poison oak at the base and when pulling your rope.
As a bit of a history, the route Trident which climbs just right of Lucky 13 and has very little, if any, protection was put up before Lucky 13. The routes are so close together that Lucky 13 could rightly be considered a bolted version of Trident.
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