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Lucky 13

5.9+, Sport, 160 ft (48 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 3 votes
FA: unknown
California > Central Coast > Pinnacles NP > W Side > Machete Ridge > W Face > Bad Man Mezzanine/Low…
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Description

This is a really well-protected and enjoyable climb.  It starts out steep at the beginning, but the difficulty eases as you get higher on the route.  The first pitch has 13-14 bolts(hangers have gone missing and been replaced over the years) and is rated 5.9.

The second pitch, which is shared with Alias Bandit Bench, traverses left past six bolts to a water streak which is climbed up past two more bolts to a two-bolt anchor.  Most people who do the second pitch choose not to belay at this anchor.  Instead they climb up 25 feet to the rappel anchor with chains.

If you do just the first pitch you can rappel about 75' back to the base of the climb from double bolts and chains.

If you choose to do the second pitch do two single rope rappels.  The first is about 75' to double bolts with chains just above the lip of an overhang.  The second rappel is mostly free-hanging. Beware of poison oak at the base and when pulling your rope.

Location

To get to this route head up the climber's approach trail for about 100 yards. Just after you pass a rocky trough, break out left up and over a small rise then head downhill for about 100 feet to a wall festooned with a line of bolts.

Protection

13-14 bolts for the first pitch to a two bolt anchor. 8 bolts, 9 if you pass the route's two-bolt anchor.