Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, Snow, 1100 ft (333 m), 6 pitches
FA: Brian Teal and Paul Turecki
Page Views: 815 total · 19/month
Shared By: Taylor-B. on Dec 15, 2020
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description Suggest change

Gunnison is the premier Keystone Wall classic moderate route and a must due for any Alaskan Alpinist or visiting climber. Despite the moderate grade the route is serious in nature with mandatory run outs, poor anchors and a lack of anchors for retreat. 

The initial ramp can be prone to avalanches and sluff. The initial pitches are also threatened by the potential of the Sans Ami ice dagger shedding ice, for the dagger becomes bottom heavy with ice and is exposed to wind and sun on the canyon rim. 

Pitch 1: Climb WI3 up the right facing corner-ramp (Triangle in the Cleft) and belay from a patch of alders or on the rock wall. 200ft

Pitch 2: Steep snow. Belay in a rock overlap on the right side of the ramp. 200ft

Pitch 3: Climb up the amazing M3 mixed runnel with sparse gear to gain the top of the right facing corner-ramp. The belay is hard to construct here with thin pitons and aid peckers. 200ft

Pitch 4: Traverse right into the left facing corner composed of vertical moss. The pitch is primarily protected with spectres and the crux M4 moves are protected well with rock gear. Belay from some very large alders. 200ft

Pitch 5: Climb up through the vertical jungle and climb a right facing corner which is the routes M5 crux. The crux has sparse protection and the rock is exfoliating. 200ft. 

Pitch 6: Continue up the corner for a few moves and find a way through the cornice to gain the canyon rim.  100ft

Descent Route: The best option is to slog and wallow over and rappel down Simple Twist of Fate. The rappel anchor is a large old growth spruce tree with webbing that is located on the south side of the Simple Twist gulley. 

Location Suggest change

This route is located on the Keystone Wall just upstream from Bridal Veil Falls. Cross the Lowe river down by Bridal Veil Falls via a ice bridge, tyrollean (sometime established) or ford the river.  Walk upstream for 5 minutes and locate the large right facing corner-ramp. 

Protection Suggest change

Ice screws, single rack, #4 pecker, 3-4 spectres