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Routes in Keystone Canyon

Type: Ice, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jennings, Moore, & Tobin 12/1977
Page Views: 2,523 total, 43/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Mar 5, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

A classic long ice line with many steep pillars separated by easier low-angle snow ramps. Traditionally done in 5 pitches, but can be done in 4 with 70M ropes.

P1 - WI3-3+, up to a bolted belay/rap station in a cave on the left side of the flow.

P2 - WI4, traverse out right from the cave and up two steep sections of ice separated by a small ramp. Another easy ramp leads up and left to another cave belay from screws.

P3 - WI5, "The Killer Pillar." Traverse out right from the cave and up a sustained 30+M long pillar of 80-90 degree ice. Belay from alders or screws somewhere on the easy snow ramp above.

"P4" - (optional) move belay to start of final ice pitch.

P5 - WI3, up and right through weaknesses to the rim of the canyon. Belay from trees.

Location

The massive flow just a few hundred yards left of Greensteps, marked by a highway sign. Can't miss it. Approach from a large pullouton the west side of the road, ~ 2 minutes walk (assuming the Lowe River is frozen). Rappel from trees, v-threads, and finally a bolted anchor back to the base.

Protection

Many screws, v-thread materials, 3-bolt anchor/rap at top of P1, tree belay/rap at top of route.
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
dsmit
Flagstaff, Az
dsmit   Flagstaff, Az
Sweet! Thanks for posting these up, it's about time. The belay cave on P.1 is awesome. 800' ice line with a 5 minute approach, this place is stacked! Hopefully with time there can be a decent amount of information on the Valdez climbs, although alaskaiceclimbing.com already has a lot. For more information check out Blue Ice, Black Gold which can be found at the library. Remember, ice climbing is only an activity for when the snow conditions are bad. Mar 6, 2013