Type: Ice, 800 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jennings, Moore, & Tobin 12/1977
Page Views: 3,935 total · 44/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Mar 5, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

A classic long ice line with many steep pillars separated by easier low-angle snow ramps. Traditionally done in 5 pitches, but can be done in 4 with 70M ropes.

P1 - WI3-3+, up to a bolted belay/rap station in a cave on the left side of the flow.

P2 - WI4, traverse out right from the cave and up two steep sections of ice separated by a small ramp. Another easy ramp leads up and left to another cave belay from screws.

P3 - WI5, "The Killer Pillar." Traverse out right from the cave and up a sustained 30+M long pillar of 80-90 degree ice. Belay from alders or screws somewhere on the easy snow ramp above.

"P4" - (optional) move belay to start of final ice pitch.

P5 - WI3, up and right through weaknesses to the rim of the canyon. Belay from trees.

Location

The massive flow just a few hundred yards left of Greensteps, marked by a highway sign. Can't miss it. Approach from a large pullouton the west side of the road, ~ 2 minutes walk (assuming the Lowe River is frozen). Rappel from trees, v-threads, and finally a bolted anchor back to the base.

Protection

Many screws, v-thread materials, 3-bolt anchor/rap at top of P1, tree belay/rap at top of route.

Photos