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Routes in Keystone Canyon

Type: Trad, Ice, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John Weiland, Solo
Page Views: 583 total, 16/month
Shared By: Nick Weicht on Dec 28, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

This amazing roadside attraction was the first peace of ice to be climbed in Valdez back in December of 1975. This is a contently flowing fetcher that forms during cold spells, crumbles during a warm streak and then will freeze again and again over the course of a normal year. Your route will often be determined by avoiding open water. This can often make for an exciting experience yet worth while. When formed this is a must climb classic that will leave you hungry for more.

P1. Horsetail Falls starts with a moderate pitch of 45+ degree ice that will bring you to the steeper upper section.

P2. The second pitch is the crux with a steep first section that will bring you to the top of the falls. Keep climbing past for another half a rope length till you reach a good alder rap station.

Location

Left side of the Canyon 13.55 miles from the intersection at Airport Road and the Richardson Highway. This is the first major climb you will see on the left side of the Richardson Highway as you enter Keystone from Valdez. There is a large pullout at the base of the falls. Use the abundant supply of alder rappel stations to descend the route.

Protection

Ice Screws, Rappel From Alders.

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