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Routes in The Upper Wall
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Aphrodite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Aphrotittie T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Black Gash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Christine's Dream T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Cig Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Corky's Rumpet T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dunn's Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gymnastics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Gymnastics left variation T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Half Hearted T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Kathy's Corner T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Maria's Farewell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Outer Limits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
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Sasafrass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Singapore Sling T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Three Pin T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 160 ft (48 m) |
| GPS: | 38.72589, -106.77013 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 746 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Skyeler Congdon on Aug 20, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Aphrotittie is another mega classic on the Upper Wall! Originally this route traversed in from an intermediate anchor halfway up Aphrodite, along a sloping ledge. At some point, a direct start was added that offers a great, steep crux sequence. It felt like 11a to me....
Climb a steep slab to a bolt 15' up, and move through fun 5.10 to reach a big ramp. Place a small piece or run it out to reach the second bolt, then enjoy steep, exposed 5.11- face to a small ledge. Gingerly make some spooky moves to the next bolt, and then fire another crux, placing another piece before the next bolt. The climbing stays on you basically the whole way.
It would be easy to TR this after leading Aphrodite, Dunn's, Sassafras, or Cig Arete. IMO one of the best face climbs in the area.
If leading this only with draws, be solid at the grade and expect legit, but doable runouts- a single large nut placement takes the R out of the upper crux.
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