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Routes in The Upper Wall

Aphrodite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Gash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Christine's Dream T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cig Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corky's Rumpet T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dunn's Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gymnastics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Hearted T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kathy's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Maria's Farewell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Sasafrass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Singapore Sling T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: P. Broscovak and M. Cranor
Page Views: 1,060 total · 10/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Jun 16, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

This is a wonderful line that can be done in two short pitches or one with a little rope drag. The route starts out with a stout, little, off width, bulgy roof then moves slightly left and up a sweet 5.9 finger crack. The crux of the route is the start of the dihedral. This was the traditional second pitch. It starts out steep and stiff for 15 feet then goes up a joyful dihedral to the top.

Location

On the far right side of the upper wall of the first buttress is a line that heads up into a prominent, shallow, right-facing dihedral.

Protection

A standard rack will do nicely.

Photos

Jamie Estep
Crested Butte, CO
Jamie Estep   Crested Butte, CO
At least you didn't "2" the fall. There's some awesome Swiss cheese 5.8s in Penitente worth leading. Oct 12, 2011
Kyle Judson
Colorado
Kyle Judson   Colorado
I was pulling through the wide and awkward start before the good rest at the bottom of the slanted finger crack. Only 15 to 20ft up. I had a #3 Camalot in the back of the crack and that was it. I was looking for a stance to protect again, but I lost a foot and went for a ride. I fell past the belay ledge into the side hill. J. Malley later told me about a little hole in the rock that you can sling and it protects that awkward section really well. I'm almost back though. Going to Penatente Halloween weekend.... Just not gonna lead yet. Oct 12, 2011
Kyle, what a drag! Heal up quickly. Where did you pop off from? Sep 29, 2011
Kyle Judson
Colorado
Kyle Judson   Colorado
I had one piece in on this climb, fell out of the bulgy OW from 20ft and decked. Broken tibia. Bummer. Now all I can do is sit on MP and dream of all the fun. Sep 15, 2011
mtoensing
Boulder
  5.10+
mtoensing   Boulder
  5.10+
Great climb. The start of the second pitch is stout!! Very slippery but good gear nonetheless. I thoroughly enjoyed myself on the OW, it is great stuff. Jun 2, 2010