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Routes in The Upper Wall

Aphrodite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Gash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Christine's Dream T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cig Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corky's Rumpet T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dunn's Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gymnastics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Hearted T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kathy's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Maria's Farewell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Sasafrass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Singapore Sling T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Broscovak & Rosholt
Page Views: 164 total, 1/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the prominent, splitter crack just to the left of Christine's Dream. Start in the same flake and crack as for Christine's. Traverse left around the nose of rock at the narrow ledge on the left just below the first roof. This puts you at the base of the straight up crack. Originally, ascents of this route set up a semi-hanging belay at this point so the belayer could keep a close eye on the leader through the crux without rope drag from the traverse. Smart slinging and or double ropes might alleviate both the drag and the need for a mid point belay. Either way, the fun begins where the crack starts. A few body lengths of hard climbing on thin fingers tiny wires and obtuse stemming and the climbing begins to "ease" up. The crack continues to widen until the climber finds themselves worming up through an impressive, sideways, offwidth slot to top out. This is a really good route!

Protection

A little bit of everything from small wires at the start up to a #4 Camalot at the top. Draws and slings to cut down on rope drag.

Photos

aaron voreis
  5.10c
aaron voreis  
  5.10c
There is now a direct start to Corky's. Follow the bolts to the crack at solid 5.11 Bring cam's tiny to a #3 Camalot + stoppers. Cheers! Aug 13, 2004