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Routes in The Upper Wall

Aphrodite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Gash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Christine's Dream T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cig Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corky's Rumpet T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dunn's Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gymnastics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Hearted T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kathy's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Maria's Farewell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Sasafrass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Singapore Sling T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Scott Gilbert & Tom Pulaski
Page Views: 149 total · 1/month
Shared By: phil broscovak on Apr 8, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a serious route of thin crack and face up a beautiful face.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is on the first buttress Upper Wall directly above 3 Pin Crack.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Small, wired nuts and small, springy things.

Photos

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One of the most slack jawed ascents I ever saw was the 1st free ascent of this incredible route.
Scotty was working the "Whiskey Crack-esque" moves in the shallow crack and not finding much in the way of substantial protection. This was in the days of EBs, stoppers and hexes. He was at least 40' above his only good gear (a medium sized stopper) when it started to rain. All of us 'ground crew' saw doom approaching. But Scotty never backed down. He always said things would look better one move higher. None of us could believe it when he stepped out of the crack and fired the blank face to the top. Later he said the crack was pouring water and there wasn't any pro anyway so he just decided to run it out on the face to the top. Absolutely amazing!
Had he slipped it was a terminal fall for sure. Scotty was one in a million (or perhaps one in a billion). Apr 8, 2008
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Phil, I'm not familiar with 3-pin crack. Where is this in relation to say, Dunn's? Jun 27, 2008
Scott, Three Pin is a fabulous route that I am sure you must have done. It is the prominent, right-facing dihedral about 50 feet right of Christene's Dream and about 100 feet left of Gymnastics. Jul 1, 2008
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Ahhh, that dihedral, the name crack threw me. I think we used to call it "The dihedral left of Gymnastics with the pins in it" :) Jul 1, 2008

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