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Routes in The Upper Wall

Aphrodite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Black Gash T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Christine's Dream T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Cig Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Corky's Rumpet T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Dunn's Dihedral T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gymnastics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Hearted T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kathy's Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Maria's Farewell T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Outer Limits T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Sasafrass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Singapore Sling T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J. Dunn
Page Views: 320 total, 3/month
Shared By: Katy H on Sep 15, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

Being tall helps for the first move, good jugs out right. Watch out for some sandy holds right below big ledge underneath anchors of first pitch. 2nd pitch is the obvious dihedral up to anchors. It's tempting to traverse over and jump on Sassafras.

Location

This is on the right side of First Buttress, it is the obvious dihedral. The first pitch ends on big ledge that is used for Sassafras belay. Rappel off anchors to ledge, then from the ledge to ground.

Protection

Standard rack. 2 bolt anchors.

Photos

Isaac H.  
 
Yep, still good :) Some serious foliage has developed in the crack immediately above the first pitch anchors. I went up the left face and then back into the dihedral above the small bushes. Still super fun. Jul 13, 2016
Kyle Judson
Colorado
Kyle Judson   Colorado
The 1st pitch is really just the approach to the super classic (IMO) 2nd pitch of this climb. Good pitch to introduce your hair gelled, bolt loving, "5.10" sport leading friends to "Old School" 5.8 trad climbing. Bring some small pro for the first 25ft or so. This was my first 5.8 lead in the Taylor, and I've loved it ever since. Sep 15, 2011
Jamie Estep
Crested Butte, CO
 
Jamie Estep   Crested Butte, CO
 
Quality crack climbing, but the lower section is more of a scramble. The thorn bush about half way up requires you to turn up the left face. I wouldn't say it's a good first lead, but a good first "real" lead. Make sure you have a 70m rope if you try to do it in 1 pitch. Feb 23, 2011
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.8
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
  5.8
This and Left Hand were my first 5.8 leads. I always felt that first pitch was kind of a highball boulder problem. Seems like I could never find any pro that I liked and I did it different every time. 2nd pitch dihedral is great for a 1st time leader, eats stoppers and hexes (showing my age). Nov 13, 2009
Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
This is a quality route. I always felt it was harder, a solid nine. Nov 12, 2009