Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, Peter Hunt, 1997
Page Views: 773 total · 14/month
Shared By: Justin Pucci on Jan 10, 2020
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

MWS can be broken up into two main sections:

1. The lower hand/fist crack is about 30 feet, is very loose, and can be touch and go on quality pro.

2. The offwidth, which runs from tipped out #4 up to tipped out #6 in sizing.

The start is in a shallow hand crack that wanders through about 15 feet of dirty, exfoliating rock before transitioning into a deeper, undulating cupped hands and fist crack for the next 15 feet. You’ll find a couple of cruxy bulges to get past in the fist crack before it widens to the offwidth.

Once in the offwidth, you can cruise a bit more efficiently if this size is your jam. If it’s not, then thrutch your way up through a few constrictions until the final, much wider portion at the top. Place your last piece of pro (tipped out #6 or a solid Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 if you’ve got them) and then traverse right to the top of the adjacent pillar and the chains of Manxome Foe (5.10a) to top out.

If you want to set up a top rope off of these chains, be sure to redirect from the top of the offwidth so that your rope lines up with the route.

Location Suggest change

MWS is found between A Midsummer Night’s Dream (5.11a mixed sport/trad) and Under Duress (5.8 sport) on top of a short pillar base of a few feet tall.

Protection Suggest change

Gear from 1” to 6” with an optional Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 in the final wide section to protect the short traverse to the chains on the right. You can place a BD #6 in this spot, but it’s in a very specific place and is slightly tipped out. You can bring a bunch of larger cams and big bros with you, but if you know how to bump, you’ll benefit from a much smaller rack.