Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Bill Robins, Paul Certa, Peter Hunt, 1997|
|Page Views:||370 total · 23/month|
|Shared By:||Justin Pucci on Jan 10, 2020|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
1. The lower hand/fist crack is about 30 feet, is very loose, and can be touch and go on quality pro.
2. The offwidth, which runs from tipped out #4 up to tipped out #6 in sizing.
The start is in a shallow hand crack that wanders through about 15 feet of dirty, exfoliating rock before transitioning into a deeper, undulating cupped hands and fist crack for the next 15 feet. You’ll find a couple of cruxy bulges to get past in the fist crack before it widens to the offwidth.
Once in the offwidth, you can cruise a bit more efficiently if this size is your jam. If it’s not, then thrutch your way up through a few constrictions until the final, much wider portion at the top. Place your last piece of pro (tipped out #6 or a solid Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 if you’ve got them) and then traverse right to the top of the adjacent pillar and the chains of Manxome Foe (5.10a) to top out.
If you want to set up a top rope off of these chains, be sure to redirect from the top of the offwidth so that your rope lines up with the route.