Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, Peter Hunt, 1997
Page Views: 370 total · 23/month
Shared By: Justin Pucci on Jan 10, 2020
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

MWS can be broken up into two main sections:

1. The lower hand/fist crack is about 30 feet, is very loose, and can be touch and go on quality pro.

2. The offwidth, which runs from tipped out #4 up to tipped out #6 in sizing.

The start is in a shallow hand crack that wanders through about 15 feet of dirty, exfoliating rock before transitioning into a deeper, undulating cupped hands and fist crack for the next 15 feet. You’ll find a couple of cruxy bulges to get past in the fist crack before it widens to the offwidth.

Once in the offwidth, you can cruise a bit more efficiently if this size is your jam. If it’s not, then thrutch your way up through a few constrictions until the final, much wider portion at the top. Place your last piece of pro (tipped out #6 or a solid Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 if you’ve got them) and then traverse right to the top of the adjacent pillar and the chains of Manxome Foe (5.10a) to top out.

If you want to set up a top rope off of these chains, be sure to redirect from the top of the offwidth so that your rope lines up with the route.

Location

MWS is found between A Midsummer Night’s Dream (5.11a mixed sport/trad) and Under Duress (5.8 sport) on top of a short pillar base of a few feet tall.

Protection

Gear from 1” to 6” with an optional Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 in the final wide section to protect the short traverse to the chains on the right. You can place a BD #6 in this spot, but it’s in a very specific place and is slightly tipped out. You can bring a bunch of larger cams and big bros with you, but if you know how to bump, you’ll benefit from a much smaller rack.

Photos