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> Central Region
> Frenchman Coule…
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> (e) Near End (aka Twi…
MWS
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in (e) Near End (aka Twin Cracks Area)
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A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blazing Saddles S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Climb Left Behind, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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F'ing 206'ers Mothers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flossing with Pubic hair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Little Big Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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MWS T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pats Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rotovap the Cat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twinklebosch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Vagina Envy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wormhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Bill Robins, Paul Certa, Peter Hunt, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 612 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Pucci on Jan 10, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Description
MWS can be broken up into two main sections:
1. The lower hand/fist crack is about 30 feet, is very loose, and can be touch and go on quality pro.
2. The offwidth, which runs from tipped out #4 up to tipped out #6 in sizing.
The start is in a shallow hand crack that wanders through about 15 feet of dirty, exfoliating rock before transitioning into a deeper, undulating cupped hands and fist crack for the next 15 feet. You’ll find a couple of cruxy bulges to get past in the fist crack before it widens to the offwidth.
Once in the offwidth, you can cruise a bit more efficiently if this size is your jam. If it’s not, then thrutch your way up through a few constrictions until the final, much wider portion at the top. Place your last piece of pro (tipped out #6 or a solid Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 if you’ve got them) and then traverse right to the top of the adjacent pillar and the chains of Manxome Foe (5.10a) to top out.
If you want to set up a top rope off of these chains, be sure to redirect from the top of the offwidth so that your rope lines up with the route.
1. The lower hand/fist crack is about 30 feet, is very loose, and can be touch and go on quality pro.
2. The offwidth, which runs from tipped out #4 up to tipped out #6 in sizing.
The start is in a shallow hand crack that wanders through about 15 feet of dirty, exfoliating rock before transitioning into a deeper, undulating cupped hands and fist crack for the next 15 feet. You’ll find a couple of cruxy bulges to get past in the fist crack before it widens to the offwidth.
Once in the offwidth, you can cruise a bit more efficiently if this size is your jam. If it’s not, then thrutch your way up through a few constrictions until the final, much wider portion at the top. Place your last piece of pro (tipped out #6 or a solid Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 if you’ve got them) and then traverse right to the top of the adjacent pillar and the chains of Manxome Foe (5.10a) to top out.
If you want to set up a top rope off of these chains, be sure to redirect from the top of the offwidth so that your rope lines up with the route.
Location
MWS is found between A Midsummer Night’s Dream (5.11a mixed sport/trad) and Under Duress (5.8 sport) on top of a short pillar base of a few feet tall.
Protection
Gear from 1” to 6” with an optional Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 in the final wide section to protect the short traverse to the chains on the right. You can place a BD #6 in this spot, but it’s in a very specific place and is slightly tipped out. You can bring a bunch of larger cams and big bros with you, but if you know how to bump, you’ll benefit from a much smaller rack.
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