Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
Washington
> Central Region
> Frenchman Coule…
> Echo Basin
> Sunshine Wall
> (e) Near End (aka Twi…
MWS
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in (e) Near End (aka Twin Cracks Area)
|
|
A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Blazing Saddles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Climb Left Behind, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
F'ing 206'ers Mothers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Flossing with Pubic hair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Get to the Fence V1 5 PG13 |
|
|
HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Little Big Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
MWS T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Pats Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Rotovap the Cat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Twinklebosch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Vagina Envy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Wormhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Bill Robins, Paul Certa, Peter Hunt, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 805 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Justin Pucci on Jan 10, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
MWS can be broken up into two main sections:
1. The lower hand/fist crack is about 30 feet, is very loose, and can be touch and go on quality pro.
2. The offwidth, which runs from tipped out #4 up to tipped out #6 in sizing.
The start is in a shallow hand crack that wanders through about 15 feet of dirty, exfoliating rock before transitioning into a deeper, undulating cupped hands and fist crack for the next 15 feet. You’ll find a couple of cruxy bulges to get past in the fist crack before it widens to the offwidth.
Once in the offwidth, you can cruise a bit more efficiently if this size is your jam. If it’s not, then thrutch your way up through a few constrictions until the final, much wider portion at the top. Place your last piece of pro (tipped out #6 or a solid Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 if you’ve got them) and then traverse right to the top of the adjacent pillar and the chains of Manxome Foe (5.10a) to top out.
If you want to set up a top rope off of these chains, be sure to redirect from the top of the offwidth so that your rope lines up with the route.
1. The lower hand/fist crack is about 30 feet, is very loose, and can be touch and go on quality pro.
2. The offwidth, which runs from tipped out #4 up to tipped out #6 in sizing.
The start is in a shallow hand crack that wanders through about 15 feet of dirty, exfoliating rock before transitioning into a deeper, undulating cupped hands and fist crack for the next 15 feet. You’ll find a couple of cruxy bulges to get past in the fist crack before it widens to the offwidth.
Once in the offwidth, you can cruise a bit more efficiently if this size is your jam. If it’s not, then thrutch your way up through a few constrictions until the final, much wider portion at the top. Place your last piece of pro (tipped out #6 or a solid Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 if you’ve got them) and then traverse right to the top of the adjacent pillar and the chains of Manxome Foe (5.10a) to top out.
If you want to set up a top rope off of these chains, be sure to redirect from the top of the offwidth so that your rope lines up with the route.
Location
MWS is found between A Midsummer Night’s Dream (5.11a mixed sport/trad) and Under Duress (5.8 sport) on top of a short pillar base of a few feet tall.
Protection
Gear from 1” to 6” with an optional Merlin #8 or Big Bro #4 in the final wide section to protect the short traverse to the chains on the right. You can place a BD #6 in this spot, but it’s in a very specific place and is slightly tipped out. You can bring a bunch of larger cams and big bros with you, but if you know how to bump, you’ll benefit from a much smaller rack.
4 Comments