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Routes in Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)

A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Climb left behind, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pats crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: to be looked up...
Page Views: 477 total, 8/month
Shared By: rpc on Apr 17, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A nice, easy off-width line. More specifically, short burts of OW moves are nicely interrupted by great stem rests. Bolted anchor just below the rim.

Location

Once at the base of Party In Your Pants (the one with the perma-top-rope and a village gathering at the base), the thin crack immediately left is Spinning Mars. The "thick" crack immediately left of that is In Too Deep (next wideness left is Blue Autumn I think).

Protection

2-6+ inches. We had two of the largest Camalots and would not have minded a 3rd (but manageable).

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10a
I always tell myself that I need to practice the OW technique. I had been putting it off for years and decided to go for it yesterday. Equiped with camalots 2,3,4. 2) #5 and green and blue big bros. If you are not used to wide stuff I would recommend the #6, or 2 of them. It was quite the battle for me. Not the hardest climbing but finding ways to protect it made for frayed nerves. It is always hard when there are undulating pods. The constrictions are great, but the void below makes for no feet and the void above makes for groveling hand arm positions. There are a few places where you have to move a ways above gear unless you bring loads of big cams. 2 double length slings can be used on chockstones.

I removed the 1/4" rusty chain from this anchor, but added new 3/8" chain and hangers to Spinning Mars. It is about 3' away. Oct 28, 2014