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Routes in Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)

A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Climb left behind, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pats crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Marleen Ford and Jim Yoder '94
Page Views: 1,391 total, 11/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Jun 3, 2007
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

A fun and interesting face climb. There used to be an anchor but often the hangers are missing so you may need to belay on top with some gear and walk off.

Location

the only bolted route between Ride'em and Easy Off.

Protection

11 bolts

Photos

Nathan Collins
Portland, OR
 
Nathan Collins   Portland, OR
 
Did this route a few weeks ago and also found no loose rock when sticking to the bolt line and stopping at the bolted anchor (apparently you can continue to the top and build a gear anchor). Oct 29, 2017
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
No loose rock at all (that I found) if you follow the bolt line. Off to the sides looked chossy, but I think it's off route. Apr 1, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11a
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11a
WARNING, A LOT OF LOOSE ROCK ON THIS ROUTE.
I think it is fine to climb it, just beware of what you are grabbing and make sure the belayer is off to the side. I pulled several dinner plates off with my fingers. 3/26/17 Mar 31, 2017
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
 
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
 
What would the crux(es) be? This was my first try leading an 11a and I found it less challenging than expected... I was trying to stick religiously to the bolt line but just wanted to make sure I didn't cheat around it. There are many opportunities to go far to the side where crumbly(?) jugs abound. Mar 15, 2017
A.wilk Wilk
Olympia, WA
  5.11a
A.wilk Wilk   Olympia, WA
  5.11a
The moves on this are very fun, with a few spots of difficulty. The route is also very well bolted.

The one bad thing is the mass amount of broken and loose rock on this climb. If someone came out and cleaned this route it would be a classic. Apr 14, 2016
pdxuller
  5.11a
pdxuller  
  5.11a
Really fantastic climb. Great position that moves around the arete, a solid no-hands rest ledge above the bulge, and slowly gets more difficult moving towards the last few bolts.

The guidebook says the anchors on top were stolen some years ago, and the new set of anchor bolts are awkwardly placed about 18" above the second to last bolt. That means there is one more bolt above the current set of anchors, and then nothing to clip if you top out. The top out is good, though. I suggest topping out, pulling up or dropping the rope, and then walking off to the right. Apr 28, 2014
jordand
Seattle, WA
 
jordand   Seattle, WA
 
I climbed past the first set of chains thinking there would be another set at the top (as stated in the guide book). Unfortunately, there was nothing up there but choss and broken dreams. It would be awesome if someone with the tools could chop the bolts above the anchors ... it gives the impression there's more to the climb when there isn't. Nice climb though! Oct 14, 2012
G Halsne  
 
Interestingly, this climb was previously rated 11b back when it was bolted in the late 90s. I would agree, some desperate moves at the end, leaves you either going really far right, or through the blank face. There are now a set of lower chains at the top. ( the newer FC book talks about their poor placement)

Good climb tho! Def a good gateway into 11s Apr 11, 2012
Sol Wertkin
Leavenworth, Washington
Sol Wertkin   Leavenworth, Washington
New anchor in place as of 11/17/08, one of the harder face routes at the sunshine wall. Nov 17, 2008
Chris H
Duvall, WA
Chris H   Duvall, WA
I found it kind of desperate at the chains Aug 10, 2007