Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: to be looked up...
Page Views: 2,649 total · 37/month
Shared By: rpc on Apr 17, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

This is one of two routes (other being Bob Dylan, 5.10-) on the left side of the Twin Cracks section of the Sunshine Wall. Crack goes from hands size down ("wavy" rock, easy climbing) to tips at the top (crux). Gear anchor.

Location

Left edge of Twin Cracks section of Sunshine Wall. 25 feet above trail (scramble up to start through some mank). Immediately right of a chossy looking wide crack.

Protection

Standard rack to 2" including a few micro pices for the top.

Photos

rpc
Portland, OR
  5.10c
rpc   Portland, OR
  5.10c
Geoff, I just copied the ratings from the guidebook. Think 10- is fair for both. Feb 11, 2014
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
maybe I was having a bad day, but I would say this is not a great warm up route. I did it as my first route out last fall and found it pumpy with sketchy pro. Make sure to find pro as it has a number of insecure moments.
Shared anchor with Bob Dylan I added in 2015. Feb 20, 2015
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
Fun climbing and now with its own anchors on the pillar face! I find this less sustained as Bob Dylan next door. May 23, 2016
Jim Jam
Wenatchee, WA
  5.10c
Jim Jam   Wenatchee, WA
  5.10c
Doubles from micro cams to a .75 bd will get you there. Gear is spaced at times but solid.
I find this climb to be more true to the grade if you do not use the left crack at all. Jun 19, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
It was nerve wracking climbing this with climbers below on Under Duress, as many holds were coming off. Be especially careful if stemming on the left crack which is falling apart. Nov 5, 2018