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Routes in Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)

A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Climb left behind, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pats crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: to be looked up...
Page Views: 1,788 total, 32/month
Shared By: rpc on Apr 17, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

This is one of two routes (other being Bob Dylan, 5.10-) on the left side of the Twin Cracks section of the Sunshine Wall. Crack goes from hands size down ("wavy" rock, easy climbing) to tips at the top (crux). Gear anchor.

Location

Left edge of Twin Cracks section of Sunshine Wall. 25 feet above trail (scramble up to start through some mank). Immediately right of a chossy looking wide crack.

Protection

Standard rack to 2" including a few micro pices for the top.
Jeromy Markee
Wenatchee, WA
  5.10c
Jeromy Markee   Wenatchee, WA
  5.10c
Doubles from micro cams to a .75 bd will get you there. Gear is spaced at times but solid. Jun 19, 2017
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
Fun climbing and now with its own anchors on the pillar face! I find this less sustained as Bob Dylan next door. May 23, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
maybe I was having a bad day, but I would say this is not a great warm up route. I did it as my first route out last fall and found it pumpy with sketchy pro. Make sure to find pro as it has a number of insecure moments.
Shared anchor with Bob Dylan I added in 2015. Feb 20, 2015
rpc
 
rpc  
 
Geoff, I just copied the ratings from the guidebook. Think 10- is fair for both. Feb 11, 2014