Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, 8/1989
Page Views: 289 total · 8/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 9, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The Yoder description lured me into trying this. He calls this " a potential area classic". I am always up for an adventure, and this was a wild adventure, good thing there was no belayer or anyone below because every hold I tried came off in my hands. The edge of the crack crumbled off when I attempted to finger lock or hand jam.I used both cracks most of the way up, and I guess Bill and Paul used the right side crack which was less loose but still very dirty. On a positive note, there was no pidgin shit because it was too thin.
The route description says climb the thin crack on the right side, switch 2/3 the way up. I did that and also the left side crack all the way up. There was much dirt streaming out and toaster oven size blocks coming off.
Still might be an area classic some day.

I did some more cleaning on this 11/15/17. I am sad to say that it is not much better, keeps exfoliating.

STAY AWAY FOR NOW, STILL LOOSE AND DIRTY

Location

right side of column that has Easy Off.

Protection

gear to 3". mostly finger size gear and smaller. It now has a anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Micah Klesick
Kalamazoo, MI
Micah Klesick   Kalamazoo, MI  
how's it supposed to become an area classic if you tell people to stay away from it!? haha Mar 9, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11b
Good times at the old choss pile. It never ceases to amaze me how Bill Robins would ground up OS these first ascents, so scary to even TR. I have tried to lead some of these but now TR solo to not endanger anyone, and be sure nobody is below. Mar 9, 2016