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Routes in Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)

A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Climb left behind, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pats crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, 8/1989
Page Views: 187 total, 9/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 9, 2016
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The Yoder description lured me into trying this. He calls this " a potential area classic". I am always up for an adventure, and this was a wild adventure, good thing there was no belayer or anyone below because every hold I tried came off in my hands. The edge of the crack crumbled off when I attempted to finger lock or hand jam.I used both cracks most of the way up, and I guess Bill and Paul used the right side crack which was less loose but still very dirty. On a positive note, there was no pidgin shit because it was too thin.
The route description says climb the thin crack on the right side, switch 2/3 the way up. I did that and also the left side crack all the way up. There was much dirt streaming out and toaster oven size blocks coming off.
Still might be an area classic some day.

STAY AWAY FOR NOW, STILL LOOSE AND DIRTY

Location

right side of column that has Easy Off.

Protection

gear to 3". mostly finger size gear. No anchor.

Photos

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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
Good times at the old choss pile. It never ceases to amaze me how Bill Robins would ground up OS these first ascents, so scary to even TR. I have tried to lead some of these but now TR solo to not endanger anyone, and be sure nobody is below. Mar 9, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
how's it supposed to become an area classic if you tell people to stay away from it!? haha Mar 9, 2016