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Routes in Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)

A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Climb left behind, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pats crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: to be looked up...
Page Views: 246 total, 4/month
Shared By: rpc on Apr 17, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Bob Dylan is one of two adjacent cracks on the far left of the Twin Cracks section of the Sunshine Wall. The guidebook we have gives it a 5.10b rating but that seemed way generous...feels easier than Air Guitar. Start in a thin hands crack (#.75-1 Camalots) and traverse slightly left near the top. Gear anchor at the top. Watch for slightly flakey rock at the top (helmet esp. for belayer).

Location

Route starts about 25 feet (of 3rd class choss) above the trail. Just to its left is Welcome To Vantage crack. There's some bolted arete 10 feet further left.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Lower part (bulk) of route will take #0.75 to #1 Camalots.

Photos

Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
Two stars only?! Definitely worth three! Sustained thin hands yield to fun hand crack moves to the chains! Thanks to Geoff's anchor on the pillar face, this greatly enhances the enjoyment of this pitch. Lots of fun! May 23, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
Mostly in the .75- #1 camalot size, which means sustained ring locks for me. Scary block at the top seems to be wedged in, just be careful pulling on any of it as you traverse left near the top.
For me Air Guitar is 5.9, and this quite a bit harder, so at least 10a, or 10b.
I added a bolted anchor and chain in 2015. Oct 28, 2014