Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: to be looked up...
Page Views: 409 total · 6/month
Shared By: rpc on Apr 17, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Bob Dylan is one of two adjacent cracks on the far left of the Twin Cracks section of the Sunshine Wall. The guidebook we have gives it a 5.10b rating but that seemed way generous...feels easier than Air Guitar. Start in a thin hands crack (#.75-1 Camalots) and traverse slightly left near the top. Gear anchor at the top. Watch for slightly flakey rock at the top (helmet esp. for belayer).

Location

Route starts about 25 feet (of 3rd class choss) above the trail. Just to its left is Welcome To Vantage crack. There's some bolted arete 10 feet further left.

Protection

Standard rack to 3". Lower part (bulk) of route will take #0.75 to #1 Camalots.

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geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
Mostly in the .75- #1 camalot size, which means sustained ring locks for me. Scary block at the top seems to be wedged in, just be careful pulling on any of it as you traverse left near the top.
For me Air Guitar is 5.9, and this quite a bit harder, so at least 10a, or 10b.
I added a bolted anchor and chain in 2015. Oct 28, 2014
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
Two stars only?! Definitely worth three! Sustained thin hands yield to fun hand crack moves to the chains! Thanks to Geoff's anchor on the pillar face, this greatly enhances the enjoyment of this pitch. Lots of fun! May 23, 2016