Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Russell Johnson, 1987
Page Views: 253 total · 11/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 26, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Another rainy day adventure that left me covered in mud. This was perhaps the dirtiest most loose climb I have tried on the sunshine wall. But I did not give up on it, and I think it climbs really well, it just needs some more cleaning.
This route is pretty clean now, expect some loose face holds since it is never climbed.

Location

Painted Black is the double crack to the left, Little Big man crack to the right, and bolted line Snooze Ya Loose next right.

Protection

a vast amount of gear, mostly in the medium range with 2 each #2, #3, #4 and a optional #5 for the top.
I added a bolted anchor to this 11/15/17

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Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
This route is full of surprises. Pro is surprisingly good. The handjams are surprisingly solid. The moves surprisingly fun. Thanks to Geoff for cleaning up this pitch and equipping it with an anchor. Well worth it! Dec 23, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
someones gotta do it. what gear in general, mostly hand size, did you use a #5 for the top? Dec 26, 2017
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
No need for a #5. You can cheat around on face holds, Vantage style. But you will be run-out without the #5. The rest of the route is heavy on the .5 and .75 camalots, if your hands are your #2 camalots. If not, then take several #2's. Jan 2, 2018
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
I was pretty happy to have a #4, and #5 for the top, but if you slide the #4 up a ways the #5 really only protects about 10' to the anchor. I need to add chain, major rope twisting rapping off quicklinks. May 21, 2018