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Routes in Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)

A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Climb left behind, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Big Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pats crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Russell Johnson, 1987
Page Views: 174 total · 13/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Mar 26, 2017
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Another rainy day adventure that left me covered in mud. This was perhaps the dirtiest most loose climb I have tried on the sunshine wall. But I did not give up on it, and I think it climbs really well, it just needs some more cleaning.
This route is pretty clean now, expect some loose face holds since it is never climbed.

Location

Painted Black is the double crack to the left, Little Big man crack to the right, and bolted line Snooze Ya Loose next right.

Protection

a vast amount of gear, mostly in the medium range with 2 each #2, #3 a #5 for the top.
I added a bolted anchor to this 11/15/17

Photos

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Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
This route is full of surprises. Pro is surprisingly good. The handjams are surprisingly solid. The moves surprisingly fun. Thanks to Geoff for cleaning up this pitch and equipping it with an anchor. Well worth it! Dec 23, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
 
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
 
someones gotta do it. what gear in general, mostly hand size, did you use a #5 for the top? Dec 26, 2017
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
No need for a #5. You can cheat around on face holds, Vantage style. But you will be run-out without the #5. The rest of the route is heavy on the .5 and .75 camalots, if your hands are your #2 camalots. If not, then take several #2's. Jan 2, 2018

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