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Routes in Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)

A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Climb left behind, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Big Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pats crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome To Vantage T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, May 1988
Page Views: 409 total · 8/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Feb 10, 2014
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a great crack with a few loose bits. I cleaned some large rocks out of it in 2012, cleaner now. Like many cracks at Vantage, it has undulations that would take hexes well. It does not have the usual many face holds so the crack is quite sustained with many creative positions to find rests.

Location

There is an alcove sloping up above the trail with Bob Dylan on the left, this is on the right side. There is a 10a crack left of it and a wide 5.8 left of that. This crack is furthest out to the arete on the right. there is a short tower with bolts on it, that used to be Herms tower, that someone pushed over.

Protection

Gear to 2.5"
Bolted anchor I added in 2015.
I could have used 4-5 #.75 camalots if I had them.Hexes and nuts work well in the constrictions. The bulk of the route is all .5, .75 and #1 camalot.

Photos

Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
I would avoid this pitch. Sorry Geoff! Thanks for the anchors. But the crack down low is dangerously crumbly, and there is a football sized sharp block 2/3 of the way up the route that is ready to come out. Highly stressful pitch for the value. May 23, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10c
No offense taken, but it's Vantage, didn't seem that bad to me. I tried to pry that block out, it seems to be wedged. Now, Bob Dylan ( the route ) scares me more, those stacked blocks at the top- yikes. May 23, 2016
Jplotz
Wenatchee, WA
 
Jplotz   Wenatchee, WA
 
After giving this a second chance, I think this is the second best pitch in the Bob Dylan alcove. Great pro with fun movement, the last 30' of the climb being the crux. Apr 14, 2018

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