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Routes in Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)

A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Climb left behind, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Little Big Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pats crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Russell Johnson, 1987
Page Views: 74 total · 25/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jan 23, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Description

Another old route never climbed. I am guessing the 10c rating is for the start, it says in the book a thin crack, more like thin seam and big moves without pro to arete holds. I also tried using the Snooze holds and the Cattle prod crack to start.
The rest of the route is OW but many face holds give you a rest, I did a few knee jams and chicken wings, but most of it is more like fists.
I cleaned a lot of loose rock off this 1/21/2018.

Location

Right of Cattle Prod, Left of Snooze ya Loose.

Protection

If you start off of cattle prod you will want #2's for the shallow hand jam, the rest of the route is mostly #4 and #5, with a #3 at the top- then use the Cattle Prod anchor.If you got desperate you could clip the bolts on Snooze, but that would be cheating and a bad rope line.

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Gabe Aeschliman
Seattle, WA
Gabe Aeschliman   Seattle, WA
Launched off the ground with a couple #4s, but the upper crack is mostly #5 (and probably #6). I had a #5 sent up via Cattle Prod. I bumped it up and ran it out until I decided to bailed onto Cattle Prod. The book just lists gear to #4. Just a heads up! Apr 2, 2018

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