Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Russell Johnson, 1987
Page Views: 100 total · 9/month
Shared By: geoff georges on Jan 23, 2018
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Another old route never climbed. I am guessing the 10c rating is for the start, it says in the book a thin crack, more like thin seam and big moves without pro to arete holds. I also tried using the Snooze holds and the Cattle prod crack to start.
The rest of the route is OW but many face holds give you a rest, I did a few knee jams and chicken wings, but most of it is more like fists.
I cleaned a lot of loose rock off this 1/21/2018.

Location

Right of Cattle Prod, Left of Snooze ya Loose.

Protection

If you start off of cattle prod you will want #2's for the shallow hand jam, the rest of the route is mostly #4 and #5, ( while you could place a #6, it isn't really needed , but you will want at least 2 each of #4 and #5 Camalot ) with a #3 at the top- then use the Cattle Prod anchor.If you got desperate you could clip the bolts on Snooze, but that would be cheating and a bad rope line.
Also the 3 smaller big bros could be used, so you can bump up the #5 Camalot.

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Gabe Aeschliman
Seattle, WA
Gabe Aeschliman   Seattle, WA
Launched off the ground with a couple #4s, but the upper crack is mostly #5 (and probably #6). I had a #5 sent up via Cattle Prod. I bumped it up and ran it out until I decided to bailed onto Cattle Prod. The book just lists gear to #4. Just a heads up! Apr 2, 2018