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Little Big Man
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3 from 7
votes
Routes in (e) Near End (aka Twin Cracks Area)
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A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Blazing Saddles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Climb Left Behind, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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F'ing 206'ers Mothers T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Flossing with Pubic hair T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Get to the Fence V1 5 PG13 |
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HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Little Big Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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MWS T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pats Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rotovap the Cat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Twinklebosch T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Vagina Envy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wormhole T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 47.02288, -119.97333 |
| FA: | Russell Johnson, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,251 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Geoff Georges on Jan 23, 2018 |
| Admins: | Jon Nelson, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
Description
Another old route never climbed. I am guessing the 10c rating is for the start, it says in the book a thin crack, more like thin seam and big moves without pro to arete holds. I also tried using the Snooze holds and the Cattle prod crack to start.
The rest of the route is OW but many face holds give you a rest, I did a few knee jams and chicken wings, but most of it is more like fists.
I cleaned a lot of loose rock off this 1/21/2018.
Protection
If you start off of cattle prod you will want #2's for the shallow hand jam, the rest of the route is mostly #4 and #5, ( while you could place a #6, it isn't really needed , but you will want at least 2 each of #4 and #5 Camalot ) with a #3 at the top- then use the Cattle Prod anchor.If you got desperate you could clip the bolts on Snooze, but that would be cheating and a bad rope line.
Also the 3 smaller big bros could be used, so you can bump up the #5 Camalot.
4 Comments