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Routes in Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)

A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Climb left behind, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pats crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Fred Stanley, 1966
Page Views: 6,998 total, 48/month
Shared By: ScottH on Feb 9, 2006
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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Nathan Stegenga
Spokane, WA
  5.8
Nathan Stegenga   Spokane, WA
  5.8
Stellar, sustained but very secure 5.8 climbing. Plenty of options for pro on the way up. 9 of 10 pieces were in the right crack, so no worries about having to extend them much. Bring your big stoppers and mid-sized gear. Each undulation provides a 5.8 crux, but the jams and stems are secure enough to pull through with ease. Jun 19, 2016
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
So many places to plug gear, in one excellent pitch. Must do!!! Jun 1, 2016
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
 
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
 
Super fun!!! Great feeling of exposure for a cinco ocho! Definitely bring lots of mid sized gear if this is your limit. ENJOY Apr 27, 2016
John Guy
Vancouver, Washington
 
John Guy   Vancouver, Washington
 
Mid-sized hexes also worked perfectly on this route Nov 16, 2015
Matt Mardigan
Seattle
 
Matt Mardigan   Seattle
 
very fun, sustained lead. as mentioned, the bulges provide the crux moves. Apr 9, 2014
if running pleasure laps on this fun climb, try just the left crack...no stems. a good little pure jamming jaunt. Dec 20, 2013
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
The book says there's one bolt that you can back up with a 4" piece, but there were three equalized chains when I got to the anchor yesterday. Awesome fun by the way. A romp.

I found that the cracks took a wide variety of gear the entire way up. I was saving most of my wider gear because I thought I'd read it widens up at the top, but the crack undulates enough that you can really take a basic rack to 3" if you're conservative and creative. Plenty of nut placements, unlike Michiel I used my small nuts and they felt bomber. Apr 10, 2012
atfarley farley
Salt Lake City, UT
 
atfarley farley   Salt Lake City, UT
 
This is one of my favorites here, don't leave without tryin it. Sep 24, 2008
Michiel Zuidweg
Seattle
 
Michiel Zuidweg   Seattle
 
A great sustained 5.8 trad climb. I would recommend doubling up on mid sized cams and bring one or two micro cams. Leave the small nuts, I never found a use for them. However, since I ran out of mid cams, I stacked two large stoppers. Great hand jams, a few stem rests, and the bulges do provide the crux moves. Apr 21, 2006
ScottH
 
ScottH  
 
Having somehow managed to introduce this route without a description, I'll put it in here. Party in your Pants ascends a pair of parallel crack systems just left of Easy Off. Stem and jam your way up the steep corners and past a series of wavy bulges, which provide the crux moves. Fairly continuous 5.8 climbing. Bring gear to 3". Feb 9, 2006