Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: will need to look up
Page Views: 1,057 total · 13/month
Shared By: rpc on Apr 1, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

The crux of this one hits right off the ground and it’s also the section that protects the poorest. The first satisfying placement is about 5 feet below the bolt which itself is not really in the best location as a bomber placement can be found 8 inches above it (but of course I clipped it). Once you clip the bolt, the climbing eases (& seriousness decreases) to typical Sunshine Wall crack climbing (i.e. stemming). Belay off the bolted anchors atop the sport route to the right.

Location

Thin crack immediately to the right of Party In Your Pants. There’s a lone bolt 20-25 feet up. Maybe the name implies this already but it felt more heads-up than the Spinning Mars (11b) crack immediately left of Party…

Protection

Micro cams but really not that many since even the tiniest ones are too large for the crack below the bolt. A mid-sized (#3 or 4) HB offset or equivalent. Otherwise gear to 2 inches with an optional #3 for the easy exit hand crack. Lowe Balls would probably work but I did not bring any.

Photos