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Routes in Near End of Sunshine Wall (aka Twin Cracks Area)

A Midsummer Night's Dream T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blue Autumn T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bob Dylan T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cattle Prod T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Climb left behind, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Climbing on Rainbows T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Duress S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Easy Off S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
HIV Positive T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Too Deep T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M.F 206'ers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Manxome Foe, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Painted Black T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Party in Your Pants T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pats crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Puppies in the Blender T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Ride 'em Cowboy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shrinking Ball Disease T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Snooze Ya Lose S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spinning Mars T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Under Duress S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
VD Test T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome To Vantage T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: will need to look up
Page Views: 696 total, 12/month
Shared By: rpc on Apr 1, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The crux of this one hits right off the ground and it’s also the section that protects the poorest. The first satisfying placement is about 5 feet below the bolt which itself is not really in the best location as a bomber placement can be found 8 inches above it (but of course I clipped it). Once you clip the bolt, the climbing eases (& seriousness decreases) to typical Sunshine Wall crack climbing (i.e. stemming). Belay off the bolted anchors atop the sport route to the right.

Location

Thin crack immediately to the right of Party In Your Pants. There’s a lone bolt 20-25 feet up. Maybe the name implies this already but it felt more heads-up than the Spinning Mars (11b) crack immediately left of Party…

Protection

Micro cams but really not that many since even the tiniest ones are too large for the crack below the bolt. A mid-sized (#3 or 4) HB offset or equivalent. Otherwise gear to 2 inches with an optional #3 for the easy exit hand crack. Lowe Balls would probably work but I did not bring any.

Photos

Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
 
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
 
One spicy meatball to lead, but if you fancy hard moves above run outs and thin gear this one is for you! found moves above the bolt to still be engaging, and lots of fun stemming to be had in combination with thin crack climbing. One could lead it with just the bolt clipped and still have a quality pseudo lead. Jun 1, 2016
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.11b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.11b
yes it used to have a bolt, and agree the 2nd bolt is not needed. Fun moves getting up to the existing bolt. Some other cruxy bits, but much easier overall after the first 20'. Nov 2, 2014
Ethan Henderson
Silverdale, WA
 
Ethan Henderson   Silverdale, WA
 
Start protects decently with a 1 and 2 loweball i believe Oct 7, 2013
rpc
 
rpc  
 
Some historical perspective
cascadeclimbers.com/forum/u… Sep 24, 2013
ehhaole
Seattle, WA
ehhaole   Seattle, WA
There is an unfinished (or pulled) bolt hole near the sporty start of this climb. My guess is that someone decided that it should either be toproped from the sport climb next to it, or led by people who like unprotected balance-y stems with groundfall potential. Sep 23, 2013