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Routes in Eagle Lake Chasm

North Chasm Crack T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
South Chasm Crack TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
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Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Aidan Maguire
Page Views: 103 total · 16/month
Shared By: Aidan Maguire on Feb 7, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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North Chasm Crack

A great freak of nature caused the chasm to form without the entire cliff falling into the lake. As it did an inner crack became exposed that is mirrored on each side of the chasm. The North being the classic.
It looks like it may be possible to either stem to the other side of the chasm or to the big chockstone belay ledge, but alas, not so!

A super fun TR in summer when the main face comes into the sun and a couple of laps will definitely give a nice pump. The belayer sits on a giant chock stone 1/3 down the chasm (easily reached) and lowers the climber into the always cool chasm. Even in summer there is often a large blob of snow sitting in the base of the chasm

The climb is pretty continuous but has a crux of off hands 1/3 up and the the last 8 feet is a bouldery, sequential finish. Slightly overhanging. It can be lead but the gear at the top section is a bit tricky. Nice bolted anchor makes it easy to TR. Despite little traffic it is quite clean.

North Chasm Crack

After topping out on any typical Eagle lake cliffs route walk back 50-60 feet to the large splitter chasm. The 2 chasm routes are at the east end of the chasm

Protection

gear to 2 inches.

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