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Routes in Eagle Lake Cliff

Barney Rubble T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blockbuster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buster Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changeling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hairline T A4-5 X
Kingfisher T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learn to Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Disaster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nagual, aka: Moonflower, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Off The Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perch, Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Glory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seams to Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Separated Reality T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Truckin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Walk T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thrust is a Must T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trust is a Must T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unkown Chimney S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild at Heart S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
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Type: Trad
FA: Mike Corbett, Charleen Serniuk, 1979.
Page Views: 1,752 total · 12/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 28, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

30' right of "Crackula" is a right facing corner.
Climb double cracks to a roof and follow a wide crack over the roof.

Protection

Pro to 3" (or wider).

Photos

- No Photos -
426
  5.9+
426  
  5.9+
Bring yer widest gear...

9++ Mar 19, 2007
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I second 9++, there is some anaconda squeeze action going on at the top.

An invigorating lead. Jul 30, 2011
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
 
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
 
The move from crack to chimney will most certainly freak you out.... Feb 27, 2013
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
I brought, and used a #6, still ended up climbing 30 feet without gear to the anchors. . . Aug 6, 2014
Got my rear-end handed to me on this route. I ended up bailing off a final piece in the flake to the left of the wide crack in the last 20-30' of the route, which I rescued from the anchors of Buster Brown.

While rescuing the piece and cleaning this route, I could not find any anchors at the top of this route. What gives? Am I blind?

That pulling the roof and the rest of that wide section felt burly, but I am fat and weak. I would definitely recommend wide gear for the top. I took up only a BD #5 and wish I had a BD #6. Jun 17, 2018

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