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Routes in Eagle Lake Cliff

Barney Rubble T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blockbuster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buster Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changeling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hairline T A4-5 X
Kingfisher T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learn to Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Disaster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nagual, aka: Moonflower, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Off The Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perch, Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Glory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seams to Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Separated Reality T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Truckin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Walk T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Thrust is a Must T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trust is a Must T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unkown Chimney S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild at Heart S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad
FA: Rick Cashner, Angie Morales
Page Views: 6,200 total, 46/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 20, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This exceptional crack climb, starts in the first crack left and around the corner from "Spacewalk". Climb this crack and corner to the top. Lots of liebacking with great rests between several crux sections 10-15 feet long.

Protection

Pro to 3.5". TR from Quest for Glory is reasonably safe, though the climber will swing into the dihedral.

Photos

B-Slim
San Jose
B-Slim   San Jose
We set to climb this route Sunday 30/July/17 and there was a party hugging this climb for more than 4 Hours... please if your are TR-ing a classic route like this one think about other climbers whom traveled miles and miles to climb this, it is not because you are the first there that you reserve the right to own the climb for all day long... Jul 31, 2017
Mike Bonvino
Nevada City, CA
 
Mike Bonvino   Nevada City, CA
 
A touch stout for the grade but not to be missed! Aug 22, 2016
The super topo book says to take cams .75 - 3.5". I think most people would be stoked to have a couple .5" cams. Great route! Aug 19, 2015
jplaut
 
jplaut  
 
Fantastic climb overall. A bit stiff for the grade, but takes really good gear all the way up. I thought the dirty offwidth slot at the end of the climb, though, really deteriorated from the climb's overall beauty. It was a funky, awkward end to an otherwise quite aesthetic climb. In any case, definitely worth doing. Sep 16, 2013
J. Hickok
  5.10a
J. Hickok  
  5.10a
I was glad to find that the anchor now resides at the very top of the dihedral, as it should be. Not to be missed at this wall. Compared to most 10a crack climbing up and down the East Side of the Sierras, this is pretty spot on. Aug 16, 2013
Court
  5.10b
Court  
  5.10b
also found it a bit stiffer than any .10a i've done, and i was following. awkward crack isn't my thing yet though. we were fine with a 60m rope and directional but i think she extended the anchor a bit Aug 2, 2013
Patrick Mulligan
  5.10a/b
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.10a/b
It's been some time since I last climbed this, but I remember feeling that the route was stiff for the grade. Great climbing! Nov 22, 2011
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10b
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10b
Harder than Moonflower and sustained, nevertheless awesome crack climbing with an exciting hand traverse 70' up. Guidebook anchor was chopped and has been replaced with another one 40' up. 3.5" cam would be helpful in 5.9 section leading up to anchor.

Full value! Sep 28, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Pro up to 3.5" was nice to have. For variety alone, this climb is a classic.

There's usually a slung block to rap and bypass the 5.8, so-so, slightly crumbly climbing to the higher anchors. The slung block is located at the junction of Quest for Glory with Space Truckin' (you can easily set an anchor there and rap off the block when cleaning it). Sep 20, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
The rock quality does not deteriorate above the old anchors. The additional mileage on the route provides some thought-provoking, offwidthy moves to keep you on your toes! Jun 24, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a
a 60m works to lower/rap with if you arent setting up a TR- the traverse is what gets you if you're TR'ing, but vertically, its 100' base to anchor and a 60m allows for lower off. put a directional in, though, and it eats up enough rope that its a problem.

that said, i prefer the anchors up high, it adds more superb climbing and gives the route an additional star! Jul 27, 2009
Sometime within the last year the bolted anchor shown in Supertopo at the top of Space Truckin' was chopped and a new anchor was put in about 40 feet higher at the top of the cliff. The old anchor was about 70 feet up. The new anchor is around 110 feet up. You now need a 70M rope to TR the route or lower off of it. If you have a 60M you can lower to the ledge about 15 feet off the deck where the 10D begins and down climb from there.

For the upper part of the route past where the old anchor was, bring a couple of 3 to 4 inch pieces.

I think it is a pity that the old anchor was chopped as the rock quality and the quality of climbing deteriorates above the old anchors. Jul 7, 2009
426
 
426  
 
Used to be a fixed sling belay around a block (manky). Do yourself a favor and finish up the gorgeous 5.9ish dihedral to the top. Mar 19, 2007