Space Truckin' [Suggest Change]

Used to be a fixed sling belay around a block (manky). Do yourself a favor and finish up the gorgeous 5.9ish dihedral to the top. Mar 19, 2007

Sometime within the last year the bolted anchor shown in Supertopo at the top of Space Truckin' was chopped and a new anchor was put in about 40 feet higher at the top of the cliff. The old anchor was about 70 feet up. The new anchor is around 110 feet up. You now need a 70M rope to TR the route or lower off of it. If you have a 60M you can lower to the ledge about 15 feet off the deck where the 10D begins and down climb from there.

For the upper part of the route past where the old anchor was, bring a couple of 3 to 4 inch pieces.

I think it is a pity that the old anchor was chopped as the rock quality and the quality of climbing deteriorates above the old anchors. Jul 7, 2009

a 60m works to lower/rap with if you arent setting up a TR- the traverse is what gets you if you're TR'ing, but vertically, its 100' base to anchor and a 60m allows for lower off. put a directional in, though, and it eats up enough rope that its a problem.

that said, i prefer the anchors up high, it adds more superb climbing and gives the route an additional star! Jul 27, 2009

The rock quality does not deteriorate above the old anchors. The additional mileage on the route provides some thought-provoking, offwidthy moves to keep you on your toes! Jun 24, 2010

Pro up to 3.5" was nice to have. For variety alone, this climb is a classic.

There's usually a slung block to rap and bypass the 5.8, so-so, slightly crumbly climbing to the higher anchors. The slung block is located at the junction of Quest for Glory with Space Truckin' (you can easily set an anchor there and rap off the block when cleaning it). Sep 20, 2010

Harder than Moonflower and sustained, nevertheless awesome crack climbing with an exciting hand traverse 70' up. Guidebook anchor was chopped and has been replaced with another one 40' up. 3.5" cam would be helpful in 5.9 section leading up to anchor.

Full value! Sep 28, 2010

It's been some time since I last climbed this, but I remember feeling that the route was stiff for the grade. Great climbing! Nov 22, 2011

also found it a bit stiffer than any .10a i've done, and i was following. awkward crack isn't my thing yet though. we were fine with a 60m rope and directional but i think she extended the anchor a bit Aug 2, 2013

I was glad to find that the anchor now resides at the very top of the dihedral, as it should be. Not to be missed at this wall. Compared to most 10a crack climbing up and down the East Side of the Sierras, this is pretty spot on. Aug 16, 2013

Fantastic climb overall. A bit stiff for the grade, but takes really good gear all the way up. I thought the dirty offwidth slot at the end of the climb, though, really deteriorated from the climb's overall beauty. It was a funky, awkward end to an otherwise quite aesthetic climb. In any case, definitely worth doing. Sep 16, 2013

The super topo book says to take cams .75 - 3.5". I think most people would be stoked to have a couple .5" cams. Great route! Aug 19, 2015

A touch stout for the grade but not to be missed! Aug 22, 2016

We set to climb this route Sunday 30/July/17 and there was a party hugging this climb for more than 4 Hours... please if your are TR-ing a classic route like this one think about other climbers whom traveled miles and miles to climb this, it is not because you are the first there that you reserve the right to own the climb for all day long... Jul 31, 2017