Type: Trad
FA: Mike Corbett, Andy Doehring, 1979. FFA: Rick Cashner, Bill Serniuk, 1979.
Page Views: 2,354 total · 16/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climbs a crack on the right of a boulder cave.

Location

Walk up past "Off The Wall' to a prominent boulder cave.

Protection

Pro to 2".

Photos

426
  5.10a
426  
  5.10a
Awesome route...bring some good technique. Mar 19, 2007
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10a
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10a
Great crack that requires technique to get through the crux as there are no face holds. Middle of the route takes slung features and then a thin face move to top out. Great route! Biggest thing I took was a #2 camalot, but you could place a 3, or even a 4 on this route.

Oh yeah, if you think it's .9, you're in for a surprise. Jul 19, 2007
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
  5.10a
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
  5.10a
This climb is no 5.9. I thought Buster Brown was easier but then again fingery cruxs are not my forte. Jul 21, 2010
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Bring a 4 inch cam for the top Aug 15, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10a
Down a musty corridor in time leading to a faded memory of what is more than likely a different route, this route is a 5.9. Gotta love Blitzo!

The crux has bomber locks but I feel like the foot jam you get at that point levers you out of them somewhat. Consequently, the low crux on this route feels a bit burly, but it's soon over.

The top of this route looks like a real pile but is actually pretty interesting climbing. You won't get bored. Pro up to a #3 or #4 camalot will work out pulling around the bulge. Sep 4, 2011
Blitzo
  5.9
Blitzo  
  5.9
It was a good day when we did the first free ascent. Earlier we did a new route called "Horny". We named it that because we saw a couple getting it on next to the stream. They were quick and unexciting. Then we came across a bag of weed, bagged a FFA and had a swell day! Jan 15, 2012
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10a
Did this route thinking it was Changeling in the guidebook. The description of changeling seemed appropriate for this "steep hands and fingers down low." When I hopped on the route I was pleasantly surprised on how hard 5.9 was at this crag. I even slipped down low, but luckily enough to catch myself with my good handjam. I only brought up to a #2 C4 on this but would highly recommend bringing a #4 to protect the top if this is your onsight level. Traversing left to the anchors was pretty thought provoking with a bad swing if you slip at that move Jul 23, 2018