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Routes in Eagle Lake Cliff

Barney Rubble T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blockbuster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buster Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changeling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hairline T A4-5 X
Kingfisher T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learn to Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Disaster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nagual, aka: Moonflower, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Off The Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perch, Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Glory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seams to Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Separated Reality T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Truckin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Walk T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Thrust is a Must T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trust is a Must T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unkown Chimney S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild at Heart S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad
FA: Dana Grossman, Rick VanHorn, 1980.
Page Views: 4,302 total · 29/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 28, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Spectacular crack just left of the right-slanting crack of "The Nagual".

A 60m rope will just get you to a ledge above the ground, from which you can easily downclimb. Be careful.

The route can be TRd with some care - scramble up the gully a ways to the left (the second gully!).

Protection

Pro to 1.5".

Photos

426
 
426  
 
classy thin crack technique will help... Mar 19, 2007
This is a fun route.

I do not agree with the gear beta. You will want 2 #2s for the lower part of the route. If I recall, the route liked large finger sized cams, so triple up in that size if you want to stitch her up. Jul 7, 2009
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Super sustained and technical! Jun 24, 2010
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10c
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10c
Area classic! Great thin crack liebacking with great rests between 5.10 moves. Very good gear. Sep 28, 2010
Matt Twyman
Austin, TX
 
Matt Twyman   Austin, TX
 
doubles or triples of everything from BD .1 to 1.
Particularly used several .1, .2, .3, .5, 1 plus a few smaller nuts.
Perfect stone the whole way. Mental crux never let up for me but gear placements are all bomber. Powerful 5.10 crux immediately after the pillar with 2 or 3 strenuous gear placements. Big rest, less powerful crux, BIG rest, fair mental crux to top.
My slightly chopped 70m just barely reached. Depending on how much stretch you get out of your 60m, it may not make it. Jun 28, 2012
J. Hickok
Salida, CO
  5.10d
J. Hickok   Salida, CO
  5.10d
Tough climbing moves, but the real crux is placing gear in between moves. Definitely eases significantly up higher, as you can stay on your feet more. Aug 16, 2013
jplaut
 
jplaut  
 
Felt harder than 10c to me. And some small nuts definitely help protect thin sections. Really great climb. Sep 16, 2013
Joe Crawford
June Lake, California
  5.10c
Joe Crawford   June Lake, California
  5.10c
Best 5.10 on the cliff for me. Single rack .3-3 plus double .75, 1 and 0-2 mastercams. So good, every day at ELC should include this route. Jul 22, 2014
Mike Mellenthin
San Francisco, CA
 
Mike Mellenthin   San Francisco, CA
 
The locker was gone as of last weekend when I was there. I didn't think the musseys here or on other routes at the crag seemed sketchy, but don't take my word for it.

I thought this route was superb. Sep 7, 2016
B-Slim
San Jose
 
B-Slim   San Jose
 
True classic, nothing to add here, if you are a 10 climber then this is a real test route to your trad climbing skills. Probably the best 10 around here. Jul 31, 2017
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
 
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
 
The layback crux is protected by green and blue alien. Jul 23, 2018
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
  5.10c PG13
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
  5.10c PG13
#7 DMM alloy offset (gold) protects the initial moves of the crux well Aug 6, 2018

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