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Routes in Eagle Lake Cliff

Barney Rubble T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Beak, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blockbuster T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Buster Brown T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Changeling T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crackula T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flight Simulator T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hairline T A4-5 X
Kingfisher T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Learn to Fly S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Master of Disaster T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nagual, aka: Moonflower, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Off The Wall S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perch, Right, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Glory T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seams to Me T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Separated Reality T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Truckin' T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Space Walk T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Thrust is a Must T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trust is a Must T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unkown Chimney S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild at Heart S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Trad
FA: Bill Todd, 1976. FFA: R. Cashner, A. Morales, 1979.
Page Views: 1,139 total, 8/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Oct 20, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb starts 75' left of Off the Wall Pinnacle.
Ascend this right leaning thin crack system to the top. The initial overhanging section is the crux.

Protection

Pro to 2.5".

Photos

Johnny Y
California
  5.10b
Johnny Y   California
  5.10b
Started on the vertical thin hand to finger crack beside the giant hollow flake, I would avoid pulling on it Jul 14, 2014
J. Hickok
  5.10 PG13
J. Hickok  
  5.10 PG13
Good start through clean rock, but the upper two thirds was not very good in my opinion. The upper half consisted of lackluster laybacking with less than desirable gear - neither very fun to protect or really that interesting to climb compared to other routes. Aug 16, 2013
Peter Valchev
Truckee, CA
  5.10b PG13
Peter Valchev   Truckee, CA
  5.10b PG13
Fun climb but not near as good as "Seams to Me" next door. Nice warm-up as it's not sustained compared to the neighbouring routes but yeah, don't fall through the crispy section (it didn't seem as bad as I expected however). Do the direct start, it's awesome even if only a couple of moves! (that's the short 5.10b, the upper part is 5.9/10a) Aug 20, 2012
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10a PG13
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10a PG13
Lieback up a ramp with gear options behind crispy, then flakes. Be a confident 5.10 leader if you plan to climb this route, falling on your gear from the crux could easily cause the rock to blow.

Soft for the book grade of .10b and certainly not .10c Sep 28, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b PG13
this route is pretty good, but if Seams to Me is .10c, this is .10b- although it'd probably clock in at .10c in most areas.

really good, but crispy on the ramp up top- be mindful of the gear. Jul 27, 2009